Thursday 21 April 2011

Puebla de Sanabria, Montforte de Lemos, Leon

We spent a week in the north of Spain staying in the Paradors of these towns and each Parador was spectacular in it own way.

From Puebla de Sanabria, located near the peaceful Lago de Sanabria, we took a day trip to Portugal via the mountain pass to the old walled city of Braganca.  I can now testify to the fine quality of the delicate Portugese tarts.  We were able to add a few words to our Portugese vocabulary, however the one word we knew held us in good stead for the day - obrigado!

(Medical side note:  My newly-diagnosed-pesky-autoimmune-condition requires 8-weekly blood tests until I return home, and as we arrived at the Parador in Puebla de Sanabria I noticed a small sign above a nearby building, "Labatorio de Analisis Clinicos'.  Next day, after coffee in the morning sunshine we paid a visit.   In precise English the tall, dark and handsome white-coated Spaniard confirmed that his rooms were indeed what in English we would call a pathology lab.  I produced my Australia doctor's pathology request form and Dr Jose promptly removed a sample of blood from my vein, recorded my details and promised to email the results to me within five days.  Eighteen euros and five minuters later the first of my European blood tests was completed - simple as that! )

Monforte de Lemos -The drive from Puebla de Sanabria to Monforte took us through eastern Galacia and through the beautiful Ribeira Sacra  - one of Spain's stunning wine producing areas.  Vineyards on every available piece of land - ancient terraced slopes apparently first cut by the Romans - all the way up the impossibly steeps slopes from the river.  Crumbling stone farm buildings dotting the scene.

Ribeira Sacre




At Monforte we stayed in the Parador which in the 9th century began life as the Monsaterio de San Vicente do Pino.  It is located on top of the San Vicente hill above the town of Monforte de Lemos.  The rooms of the Parador are situated around a beautiful central cloister, finely carved stonework at every turn.  We stayed two nights, and it was here that we received L and PJ's glorious news.  Senor and I celebrated their engagement with dinner at Restaurante O Grelo (www.resgrelo.com), a delightful cocina con tradicion tucked into the side of the San Vincente hill, just a short walk from the Parador.  Senor had the opportunity to taste the wine produced in the region we'd driven through the previous day.

On Sunday morning we went into town - it was Palm Sunday and we joined what seemed to be the whole town in a procession across the town square to the cathedral where mass began.  We slipped out the side door and over to the pestilleria for breakfast and a read in the sun.  An hour or more later we watched as many of the congregation - senors, senoras and senoritas - filed into the pastry shop to buy cakes and biscuits - all packed, parcelled and ribboned - and I imagine all destined for Palm Sunday lunch tables.

Leon was spectacular for a number of reasons.  The first one is self explanatory. Look at the Parador!
The 16th century Monasterio de San Marco is another living museum. Our room and balcony was so beautiful we didn't want to leave - one night we had a dinner picnic on our balcony while enjoying  the golden sunset.

The Parador de Leon


The other reason, Friday was our 32nd wedding anniversary, and Leon was a beautiful city in which to celebrate.  Senor and I exchanged Spanish anniversary gifts- the result of our independent shopping expedition the previous day - and celebrated in style with a romantic dinner and then breakfast.  It is unique and very special to be in Spain during Semante Santa - Holy Week - and observe the many rituals and traditions in this most religious of western countries.

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