From Kato Zakros we head south to Xerokambos Beach. It is possibly Crete's most remote beach. A small collection of homes and villas, a handful of people, no organised sunbeds or umbrellas, just sand and a vast expanse of the clearest turquoise water. I think it's the most beautiful we have seen in Crete. So cool and refreshing we didn't want to get out of the water.
And as if the beauty of Xerokambos isn't enough, there are incredible views as we drive over the mountain from Xerokambos to Makrigialos, where we stayed for five days.
As we leave the beach, the road snakes and zigzags its way up, up, up. The road is lined with wild herbs flowering purple and yellow, there are colourful collections of bee hive boxes responsible for producing Crete's wonderful pure mountain thyme honey. We stop a few times to marvel at the vista, breathe in the air, and to take a few pictures of the mountain bee boxes.
Makrigialos is a small fishing village on the Libyan Sea. This south east corner of Crete is definitely off the main tourist route. There are tourists of course, but it's quieter, there are no tour buses or day boats, and Heraklion airport is at least two hours drive.
Purely by coincidence we are in Makrigialos during its annual Casa dei Mezzo Music Festival. Four days of music concerts held at Villa Casa dei Mezzo, just a short drive out of town overlooking the sea. We decide to go to the finale concert on Sunday night. Evangelos and Delores, owners of our favourite taverna Stratos, tell us that there is no parking at Casa dei Mezzo, 'just wait on the side of the road in the town, any time between 8 and 9pm and a minivan will come and take you to the concert; no need to buy a ticket in advance, you can buy one when you arrive'. It all sounds a little casual, but we follow these instructions and sure enough, at 8.45pm after a few minutes wait on the side of the dusty road, a mini van arrives and ferries us and other concert goers up the hillside of olive groves to the stone villa. Twenty euros is all it costs for a ticket to what has been described as "the most unique and intimate classical music summer concert in Europe".
The terrace of Villa Casa dei Mezzo was set up with lighting, microphones and perhaps 100 chairs. For two hours from 9.30pm we were treated to a most beautiful night of classical music. The program included a guitarist from Greece, violinist from Italy, mezzo soprano from Norway, baritone from Germany and an ensemble of base, cello, harpsichord and violin.
It was unforgettable - a beautiful hot summer night of music under the stars, in an olive grove, overlooking the Libyan Sea and the twinkling lights of Makrigialos.
FUN FACT: A short boat ride from Makrigialos harbour is the island of Koufonisi. As well as
having ancient Minoan ruins Koufonisi was once the source of a valuable dye that was obtained from the shells of sea molluscs and used for the robes of the Emperor.
And as if the beauty of Xerokambos isn't enough, there are incredible views as we drive over the mountain from Xerokambos to Makrigialos, where we stayed for five days.
As we leave the beach, the road snakes and zigzags its way up, up, up. The road is lined with wild herbs flowering purple and yellow, there are colourful collections of bee hive boxes responsible for producing Crete's wonderful pure mountain thyme honey. We stop a few times to marvel at the vista, breathe in the air, and to take a few pictures of the mountain bee boxes.
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| It's very hot and we're so looking forward to this dip! |
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| We voted you #1, Xerokambos! |
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| Remote and serene, this is pristine Xerokambos Beach. |
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| Flowering herbs cover both sides of the road and the foothills. We see the purple wild thyme all over south east Crete. |
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| Just a tiny section of the winding road from Xerokambos to the top of the mountain road that takes us to Makrigialos and the Libyan Sea. |
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| Don't be deceived by these pretty bee hives on the steep mountain above Xerokambos. They are very friendly bees, but they DO NOT like having their picture taken. Perhaps they thought I was coming to steal away with Queen B, such was their swift response to my visit. I once heard that a remedy for a bee sting is to apply honey to the site. Fortunately, we had purchased our first pot of Cretan honey the day we arrived in Agios Nikolaos, and in the car it was stored right at my feet. As Mr Three Summers removed the honey bee stings from my head, neck, finger and leg, I remembered this remedy. We slapped liberal globs of honey all around and I can now confirm the efficacy of that remedy I heard so many years ago! Moral of the story: If you decide to stop and take pictures of Cretan honey bee boxes, be sure to have a jar of honey within arm's reach :) |
Makrigialos is a small fishing village on the Libyan Sea. This south east corner of Crete is definitely off the main tourist route. There are tourists of course, but it's quieter, there are no tour buses or day boats, and Heraklion airport is at least two hours drive.
Purely by coincidence we are in Makrigialos during its annual Casa dei Mezzo Music Festival. Four days of music concerts held at Villa Casa dei Mezzo, just a short drive out of town overlooking the sea. We decide to go to the finale concert on Sunday night. Evangelos and Delores, owners of our favourite taverna Stratos, tell us that there is no parking at Casa dei Mezzo, 'just wait on the side of the road in the town, any time between 8 and 9pm and a minivan will come and take you to the concert; no need to buy a ticket in advance, you can buy one when you arrive'. It all sounds a little casual, but we follow these instructions and sure enough, at 8.45pm after a few minutes wait on the side of the dusty road, a mini van arrives and ferries us and other concert goers up the hillside of olive groves to the stone villa. Twenty euros is all it costs for a ticket to what has been described as "the most unique and intimate classical music summer concert in Europe".
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| Stratos Taverna and the beautiful shady weeping mulberry trees. |
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| We went there for each lunch and dinner. No need to try other taverna when you find a perfect one. |
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| On our first morning in Makrigialos we made our usual breakfast of fruit and yoghurt, then went out to find coffee. We saw Delores sitting in the shade at the front of Stratos. 'Kalimera', she smiled. 'We open at 11am'. 'We'll come back for coffee at 11', I said. "Oh, if you want coffee I'll make it for your now". And that's how we came to have our coffee each morning sitting under the weeping mulberry trees at Stratos Taverna. Efharisto, Delores! |
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| Evangeleos' dolmades and octopus in lemon and olive oil. |
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| Just a few steps from taverna to beach. |
The terrace of Villa Casa dei Mezzo was set up with lighting, microphones and perhaps 100 chairs. For two hours from 9.30pm we were treated to a most beautiful night of classical music. The program included a guitarist from Greece, violinist from Italy, mezzo soprano from Norway, baritone from Germany and an ensemble of base, cello, harpsichord and violin.
It was unforgettable - a beautiful hot summer night of music under the stars, in an olive grove, overlooking the Libyan Sea and the twinkling lights of Makrigialos.
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| In the forecourt of Casa dei Mezzo before the concert. |
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| The concert was held on the terrace.... |
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| ...surrounded by olive groves, overlooking the Libyan Sea and the lights of Makrigialos. |
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| Italian voilinist Francesco Cerrato warms up. |
FUN FACT: A short boat ride from Makrigialos harbour is the island of Koufonisi. As well as
having ancient Minoan ruins Koufonisi was once the source of a valuable dye that was obtained from the shells of sea molluscs and used for the robes of the Emperor.
Please stop Robyn,you are killing me :). Wonderful descriptions of an amazing part of the world. Be good, be healthy and keep on letting that Aegean magic soak into your bones. MD.
ReplyDeleteGreece is hard to leave, isn't it MD? We're grateful for every day here and we know how quickly September will come. We'll see you both then. Ya mus!
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