Dodecanese Days - part 1

We flew from Athens to the far-flung corner of the Aegean, the Dodecanese islands.  The Dodecanese are also referred to as the sunniest corner of the Aegean, and this is how it was on Rhodes and Symi.  From Rhodes Diagoras airport we took a taxi and arrived at Saint Athanasios Gate at the south west corner of the medieval walled city of Rhodes.  Rhodes old town is perfectly preserved and a UNESCO world heritage site. We walked over the moat, through the thick fortress walls, under the stone gate and, right next to the old town bakery, found our home for the next four days. Our two room apartment is in a renovated Venetian building with our own shaded walled courtyard.

Walking around the pebbled and cobbled lanes and streets really is like stepping into another world.  Rhodes has Roman history, Byzantine history, and from 1309 was home to the Knights of St John.  That was until their stronghold on Rhodes was defeated by our friend Suleiman the Magnificent, and Rhodes then entered its Ottoman age, followed by the Italian rule during the 19th century.  We don't need to walk far to see examples of all building styles and influences left behind by the various inhabitants of Rhodes.

Rhodes Town is busy with tourists and it's easy to understand why.  It's incredibly beautiful, well preserved, or reconstructed.  Our neighbourly baker Yiannis said that within the fortress walls live approximately 3,000 people and there are over 750 shops and restaurants.

Our apartment was in a quiet corner of the town, and each morning after breakfast under the dappled shade of our sunny courtyard (complete with coffee supplied by Yiannis), we set out to explore a different area.

After a couple of days exploring inside the walls, we hopped on a local buses and for 2.40 euros travelled south past Faliraiki for a day of glorious swimming at beautiful Anthony Quinn and Ladiko Bays.  Another day we bussed it to Kalithea Springs, which takes beach side bathing to new heights.

As we walked from the taxi through the Gate of St Athinisios,
we felt like we were entering a different world.

The pebble-cobbled maze of streets and alleys are lined
with restaurants and shops.

Fountain in Ippokratous (Hippocrates) Square.

Marine Gate is one of the 11 gates that give access
to the town. This one leads from the harbour and was
built in 1478 to provide defence against Ottoman attack.

A cloudless Dodecanese blue summer sky.

Can't resist a bougainvillea photo. Jewel purple and pink
everywhere.

From the daybed of our courtyard :)

Gorgeous Ladiko Bay

Rhodes' Mandraki Harbour where the Colossus is said
to have straddled.  It's a lovely walk along the vibrant
waterfront, lined with bars and restaurants looking out on
to the harbour full of charter boats, cruise boats and
fishing boats.

Doors of Rhodes

Greek salad - no explanation required.

The grand entrance to Kalithea Springs.  Just a few
euros each to enter, and then sunbeds are free for the day,
complete with waiter service, and restaurant.    

Gorgeous buildings and gardens of Kalithea Springs.

Dusk and the impressive street of the Knights leading up
to the Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights in Rhodes.

After our Rhodian days, we took a ferry to the stunning island of Symi.  Cruising into Symi's Yialos harbour is a never-to-be-forgotten sight.  On both sides are tier upon tier of elegant, pastel-hued neo-classical buildings with red gabled roofs.  I think it really must be the most beautiful harbour ever!

Waiting at the port to greet us were our hosts, Nikos and Eva.  We're renting an apartments in their home for four nights, and already we're wondering why we chose only four nights to spend on Symi.  I mention Nikos and Eva because they are typical of the people we meet all over Greece and the Greek islands.  Warm and friendly, their hospitality is legendary.  Eva's family have lived in this home on Symi for over 100 years; Eva was born in this house.  They know everything there is to know about Symi and share their knowledge and tips generously.  From the port, Nikos takes our luggage on his Vespa, while Eva walks us through the village to their home, all the way pointing out shops, tavernas and interesting features.  When we arrive at the villa, Eva makes coffee and with freshly baked biscuits we all sit and talk in the shade of their trees.  This is the Greek way.  Greeks will always take time to sit and talk, no rush, no hurry.  Always offering refreshments and generosities.  Nikos' English is excellent, Eva speaks very little English, and Nikos jokes that 'my wife's Greek is excellent'!  It is as easy as sitting with family.

Arriving at beautiful Symi

We rented a moto from Jimmy.  Exploring Symi by moto
was magnificent.  One of the unforgettable memories
was the perfume of the mountain herbs as we travelled from
north to south on Symi's only road, over the mountains
and down to the coast again. 

Each day we walked from Nikos home along this beautiful
pebbled street on the way to our day's adventures.

We spend a day at Paradise Beach, just a short walk around
the harbour. Sunbeds, umbrellas, a lovely taverna and
the crystal clear blue Aegean.

Another day, another boat trip.  This time around Symi to
beautiful deserted bays, the beach at St Basil's monastery,
a picnic of the little island of Seskli, and a swim under the
300m cliffs of Agios Georgios Dysalona.

When one's rash shirt must match the colour of the sea :)

Ditto for me.

Each morning we visited the bakery for a warm slice of
spanakopita.  We decided that sitting on the bench at the
Yialos harbour on a summer's morning, watching
the boats and eating warm spanakopita, is one of life's joys.

On our motorbike adventuring.  The views as we climbed the
mountain above Symi were stunning.

This is Pedi

And this is the beautiful bay of the Monastery of the Archangel
Michael of Panormitis.  Pilgrims from all around the islands come
to pay homage here.

Fun fact:  The only way to get from Symi (Yialos harbour or lower town) to Ano (upper) Symi is to walk up the 500 marble steps of Kali Strata.  At the top used to be Symi's main shopping and commercial street.  Strong legs Symians, strong legs!