Monday, 5 June 2017

Glorious Greece

You couldn't wipe the smiles off our faces as we landed in Athens.  As we did in 2015, we used Welcome Athens transfer service.  It's a warm, friendly welcome at the airport and an easy, comfortable, informative transfer to our Athena hotel, and again we chose to stay in Psyrri.  Psyrri is not Athens' smartest suburb, but for character,  edge, vibe and vitality, we think it's hard to beat.  The rooftop of our Psyrri hotel has one of the best views of the Acropolis; Psyrri has our favourite deli/restaurant, its small streets and hidden alleys are full of bars, kafenions and restaurants and there isn't a building that is not covered in graffiti art.  It's Lord Byron's old Athenian neighbourhood....what's not to love about bohemian Psyrri!

Without doubt, our favourite thing to do in Athens is to walk up to the Acropolis.  It's already hot in Athens, so after an early breakfast we set out to arrive at the Acropolis ticket box just before opening time so we can enjoy our visit without the throngs that begin to arrive after 9.30am.  The walking route is along Illia Pouloupoulo which is broad and tree-lined, lined with restaurants, street vendors and artists.  As we walk higher, uphill around Apostolou Pavlou, we're rounding the Acropolis, getting higher and higher, and all the way marvelling at the sight of it, until we reach the the turn-off to the ticket box.  Perfect timing. There are only a few people waiting, the ticket box opens, and we begin to climb the steps towards the magnificent Propylaea.  On the way, we stop to take in the magnificent view of the steep-sloped stone theatre, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.  Built in 161 AD, and renovated in the mid-twentieth century, it is used for live performances during the  annual Athens and Epidaurus Arts Festival, and the most exciting thing about the Herodeon is that we have 25E tickets to see Madame Butterfly performed there the very next night!

I have goosebumps as we make our way up the steps, enter the Beule Gate, pass the monument of Agrippa, and walk under the monumental white marble Propylaea.  In fact, those goosebumps stay with me as we walk around the Parthenon, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheion..... It's all phenomenally jaw-dropping.   Sophocles, Socrates, Pericles, they all walked around this very site. I love it so much!

Make a reservation at Ta Karamanlidika because
you don't want to miss the opportunity to experience
 this gorgeous little restaurant in Athens.

From our hotel balcony 

Breakfast is great in Athens!

As we climb the Acropolis this is the view of the magnificent Odeon of Herodes Atticus.
All set up for the performances of Madame Butterfly. 

Up, up, up, approaching the Propylaea

No words! (except, go early; and UK, return the Parthenon Marbles please. There
is a place reserved for the Parthenon Marbles in the gorgeous Acropolis Museum.)

It's stunning from any angle, and there's not a cloud in
the summer sky.


The porch of the Caryatids at the Erechtheion

Make sure you go to the Acropolis early when there
are only a handful of visitors.  By the time we left
the Propylaea was a bottleneck!

Tonight's performance

Incredible acoustics under the evening sky at the Odeon.
No microphones, no speakers and the voices are strong and clear.
It was magical.

Ta Karamanlidika tou fani - our favourite Psyrri dining.
A great mezetzidiko.

With the backdrop of the impressive ancient facade,
it was a magical summer night for an opera.

Other highlights of our visit to Athens; the marble Panathenaic Stadium, the National Archaeological Museum, a Sunday afternoon stroll through the Ancient Agora, a pair of handmade sandals from Pantelis Melissinos, the Poet Sandal Maker, oh, and our first Greek coffee of the trip!

Part of the Sculpture Collection, National Archaeological
Museum.

The lower gallery of the elaborate Stoa of Attalos, just one of
the buildings in the ancient Agora.  The original was built by
King Attalos II around 140BC, the huge colonnades provided shade
for the residents of Athens, just like they're doing for us on
this hot summer's day.  
Until next time, Athena.

Fun fact:  Melissinos, the Poet Sandal maker of Athens, made sandals for The Beatles, Jackie O, Barbra Streisand, Peter O'Toole, Sophia Loren.......

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