Santorini 3.0

This is our third visit to beautiful Santorini.  First in 2015 we stayed in a cave house in Oia, then a couple of weeks later on a wayward ferry boat travelling from Naxos to Milos, we found ourselves in Santorini again.  We didn't know the ferry was scheduled to call into Santorini on the way to Milos and our unexpected visit was perfectly timed as we sailed across the caldera and watched a stunning sunset. A quick stop at Port Anthinios, then back across the caldera as the rose gold sun dripped off the white villages high on the caldera cliffs and slipped into a velvety sea. Whilst we didn't set foot on Santorini that time, it was so spectacular we still refer to it as our second visit.

This visit we decided to explore parts of Santorini new to us.  There is so much to see on this tiny old volcano, so instead of staying in one of the cliff top towns, Fira, Imerovigli or Oia, we decided to try and escape the inevitable July crowds for a 'quieter' stay - so we chose a seaside village, Perissa, with its black beach.

We stayed in Spirodoula's villa - just a simple room with balcony but with a panorama of a view. To the left Mesa Vouno, a magnificent mountainous rock cliff that rises perpendicular to the ocean. To the right the blue dome of Santorini's largest church, Timiou Stavrou, all this framed by the blue, blue Agean beyond.

Highlights during this visit were the archaeological site of Akrotiri; seeing the Red Beach and swimming at the Black Beach; a visit to Boutari winery; dinner overlooking a golden sun-drenched valley at Metaxi Mas; meeting Stavros each morning at Perissa's Santa Irini Bakery; and what I think is the number one thing to do in Santorini - hike the coastal path along the cliffs high above the caldera, from Fira to Oia.

The bell tower and blue dome of Timiou Stavrou at Perissa.

Perissa really is a black beach.... soft, black volcanic sand.

This is one view from our window, the massive cliff of
Mesa Vuono rock, and the tiny, tiny chapel, Panagia Katefiani.
At the base of the rock are the remains of the 5th century
basilica Agia Irini, or Saint Irene which is where
Santorini gets its name.  

Also taken from our apartment window, the spectacular
five-domed Timiou Stravrou

I took the first bus, 6.45am, from Perissa to Fira to hike the caldera path in the early morning.  This first bus of the day was a sightseeing trip of its own as we trundled around for an hour picking up (mostly) locals on their way to work and dropping them at various locations along the way. The 20 minute trip to Fira took an interesting hour.  Fira was still asleep at 7.45, nothing yet opened, just a few people in the main square and delivery trucks unloading supplies to the front of cafes and tavernas.  I had read a tip that as the path out of Fira can be a bit confusing through the maze of alleys and lanes, to just keep heading up, up, up and if there is a fork, take the left.  This was a good tip, and very soon I was heading out of Fira on the old cobblestoned path and towards it's little neighbour, Firostafani.  Every step of the way along the top of the caldera is breathtakingly gorgeous and spectacular.

The coast path takes around 3 hours, less if you run, and more if, like me, you stop every 5 minutes to marvel at the view and take another bucket of photos.

Belltower and dome at Fira

Caldera village views are a lovely jumble of white and blue,
cubes and domes that sparkle as the morning sun touches them.

This is Skaros Rock

From Skaros Rock, this is my destination way over on the right, that's Oia.

I think I was their first customer that day!  Coffee almost up
in the clouds.

The path leads through the villages, all whitewashed and blue.

Oia seems a long way away....

Yep, I think that sign sums it up pretty well (and there's Oia still teasing me
in the distance around the curve of the caldera cliffs).

Every single step of the trail is spectacular.  Along the way
taverna signs encouraging a little detour.

A few hours later, from a little church at the to top of
the final hill, there's Oia!

The trail is not flat, it's steep in parts and it's often rocky and uneven
so I have to watch my feet, and that's why I had to stop so
often. Because while I'm watching my foot steps I'm missing
the astonishing view.  So then I have to stop, take in the view,
 more photos, and then just close my eyes and take in the rest;
the breeze, the smells, the sounds.

I made it!  And I probably clocked up the record for the
longest time to make the 11.5km distance.   Start early
(or very late in the afternoon) because by 11.00am there's
nowhere much to hide from the blazing sun.  As you arrived
down the last descent and on the outskirt of Oia there is
a little market, and the bottle of cold sparkling water I
bought tasted so sweet.  (There is also a little blue hut at about the
3/4 waymark and a glass of the freshly squeezed orange juice there is an
excellent idea.  It gives energy for the final bloody mountain!

We've often said that one of the joys of travelling in Greece is the people we meet.  We chanced upon Santa Irini bakery, and we met Stavros the owner.  Well everyone that goes there will meet Stavros because he greets every one of his customers, thanks them for coming, helps them to make their choices from his amazing range of freshly baked bread, pastries, traditional pies, and then pops a little something extra into each purchase - a breadstick or a biscuit or two.  Stavros's whole family works in the bakery; his son makes the coffee - perfect every time.  We went there every morning, and every morning Stavros was there to welcome us.

Kind, kind Stavros

Every morning began in Stavros's bakery.  Stavros would ask
us where we were going for the day, and then gave us tips
about what to do when we're there.  He always asked us
why were were going so early!  So funny.  Greeks stay up late
and start the day late.  We're in bed by 9.00pm we told him.
We also said it was the secret to seeing the best sights
without the inevitable crowds in the Greek summer.

The terrace of our favourite Santorini restaurant, Metaxi Mas.  Not overlooking
the Caldera, but the other side of the island overlooking the green rural valley
with its fertile volcanic soil, mountains and sea in the distance.  So, so wonderful.

Metaxi Mas Taverna

We rented a car for a couple of days and our first destination was to spend a morning at the archaeological site of Akrotiri.  It's just a 10 minute drive from Perissa,  it's by the sea on the southwest corner of the island and it was built around the 5th century BC as the URBAN centre of the Aegean, a trading harbour, and bustling centre.  It's a Bronze Age settlement that was completely buried in the volcanic ash that settled after the great eruption of the volcano around 1600 BC.  The site is astonishing!  The size of the archaeological site is massive, and the excavated part is protected by a structure built right over the top so that we are walking through the excavations but inside a building. Such a comfortable change from walking over archaeological sites in the hot Greek sun!

Akrotiri is sometimes called 'the Minoan Pompeii'.  The streets were paved with
cobblestones, there were clay pipes, running water and toilets.  We saw rooms filled with
pottery, amphorae jars, bowls, jugs.  You can see the original decoration on some,
curling patterns and arcs, and there are rooms with frescoes on the walls!

Some room were workshops of the traders.

Bronze Age structures, two and three storeys high!
Incredible.

This is the sign at the beginning of the coastal path that leads around the
headland to the Red Beach.  It doesn't seem to deter anyone.
There is a steady stream of hikers on this treacherous path.
All the way the volcanic rock is sharp and and very uneven.  That's
probably why, just near this sign, was a mobile pharmacy
hut.  Cuts and scratches, and worse, are obviously common.

The coastal path around to the Red Beach.  With the sun
shining on these rocks it really does look blood red.  

See the line of hikers making their way down to the wide section of beach.
There is a boat from Akrotiri that, for 5 euros, will transport much
more safely to the waters of Red Beach.

The Red Beach in the distance.  No risk of landslide for
us.  That's as far as we went.

Hold on to your hats!  The view will blow you away.  It
looks like the cliffs are snowcapped.  No, they're white
Cycladic villages 1,200m above the sea.

The vines in Santorini are not staked like traditional vineyards.  They're
trained and trimmed to form a natural basket, right on the ground.  The
delicate growing grapes drape inside the basket and are protected
from the strong summer winds.  During the hot summer, overnight moisture
is trapped inside the basket providing water.  

The Santorini grape, the assyrtiko.  It's been cultivated on Santorini since
ancient times.  See the way the grapes rest within the wooden basket formed
by the vine.  It's genius really.

The Mediterranean good stuff.

Such as strange experience.  Soft, but gritty, BLACK sand.
The boards are necessary to get to the water.
In the midday sun the sand is HOT HOT HOT.
The water though is crystal clear and so refreshing.

From our apartment, see the tiny, tiny Panagia Katefiani.
Apparently it was used as a refuge from invaders.  In fact,
the greek word for refuge is 'katerfio'.

You know me, I can't resist a bougainvillea snap.

Another day, another hike.  Here we are at the highest village,
Imerovigli.

It's beautiful in the early morning before the crowds.

Looking back to Fira.  That's the Atlantic Hotel and the main
square at Fira, Plateia Theotokopoulou.  The dome, bell tower,
and arches of the white-washed Orthodox Cathedral of
Ypapanti.  

Our ferry to Folegandros was delayed by a couple of hours,
so again we got to enjoy an extra Santorini sunset.  This time
sitting with legs over the pier at Port Athinios.
'Everything is golden'.

Fun Fact:  Santorini is actually called Thira.  The locals refer to it

as Thira,  not Santorini.