dot dot dot ..... OS

From Santorini our itinerary is northwards through the Cyclades or in Greek, the Kyklades.  First to tiny, volcanic Folegandros, then Milos, Sifnos, Paros, Antiparos, Naxos, Mykonos, and Syros.  Notice anything?  I tried to find out why so many of the Cycladic islands end is OS.  Mostly my question was answered with, well a bit of a Greek shrug really.   Best explanation I could come up with is something about masculine and feminine nouns, but then there are exceptions to the gender of nouns and it all got a bit confusing.  An easier explanation to understand is why this group of about 200 islands is actually called the Cyclades.  The islands form a circle around the sacred island of Delos, and in Greek circle is kyklos.  Hence, Kyklades (and perhaps os is to be like Delos?).

First stop.....

FOLEGANDROS

Our delayed ferry from Santorini delivered us to the tiny port of Karavostasis well after midnight.  Our host Constantinos was waiting for us at the port to drive us to the apartment.  It was only about 10 minutes away but we appreciated his kind welcoming hospitality at that time of the night.  Constantinos said that ferries to Folegandros can often be delayed and it's not unusual for him to be popping down to the port during the night to meet his guests.

The beautiful port of Karavostasis, gorgeous clear water and
lane ropes and a pontoon for lap swimming in the sea.  How wonderful!

Just a few steps from our apartment.

Three kilometres up the hill from Karavostasis is the capital, Chora.  It is
everything that makes you fall in love with Greece.  Unbelievable views,
tiny town squares filled with shady cafes and tavernas, white draped
with pink everywhere, and an ancient Kastro - a medieval village
within the walls of a 13th century Venetian castle.  
This is the adorable cafe in Pounda Square,
where the crockery, all blue, white and Aegean mint green, is
actually made by the owners during the winter months. Sigh. 

At Chora, the Church of Panagia and its zig-zagged
stone pathway sits on the top of the cliffs.  A sheer and
jagged drop down to the Aegean.

Folegandros is just picture postcard perfect.  We loved
our four days there so much.

In Folegandros, like most of the inhabited islands of
the Kyklades, it is usual to still see traditional ways of life.
Farmers don't live on their farms, they live in the villages
and daily travel to and from their fields or terraces, usually by
donkey, sitting on a wooden saddle, carrying their katsuna.
We always give them a 'kalimera' and a wave, they will always
give us a smile and nod right back.

We rented a moto in Folegandros and explored this small
island from north to south.  It was exhilarating!
Folegandros is only 19kms from one end
to the other, but it's also mountainous and rocky.  Steep
rocky 'roads' down to glorious beaches and coves.
This is Angali.

We took a boat to remote Katergo Beach.  It has crystal clear emerald green water and an island to swim to, but it has not one inch of shade, so between a sandy cleft in the rocky cliff we made a sun shelter from our beach towels and my pareo.  Voila!  Perfect place to hang and read between swims.  The little boat puttered back a few hours later to pick us up and take us back to Karavostasis.  I told you, Folegandros is perfect.

It was hard to leave Folegandros.  Not going to say any more about this
unspoilt, tiny jewel.  Lest the secret gets out : )

FUN FACT:  Folegandros's lemon trees are protected from the winds by tall stone walls built to circle the trees, they're called lemonospita, or 'lemon-houses'.  The winter winds rip off any branches or leaves that grow taller than the stone walls.