North to south, and back again.

For the past two weeks we've travelled along Crete's north coast, back to the mountains and then south again to Sfakia, Plakias, Phastos, and returned again to the north, to Heraklion.

After leaving Kerasia and the mountains we drove north to Rethymno where we spent three nights.  Rethymno has a charming and busy harbour filled with boats and lined with tavernas and bars, and an amazingly well-preserved Venetian and Ottoman old town.  We stayed in old town in Casa dei Delfini, a restored 500 year old Venetian mansion converted into six studios.   Each day we explored the vine-covered alleys and squares.  The old homes that line these narrow alleys have either wrought iron balconies or overhanging wooden balconies, some are restored and some are crumble-ingly original.  It's very pretty, bustlingly busy with summer tourists, but there are lots of shady, quiet corners tucked away off the main alleys.  We visited the 17th century mosque that began life as a Venetian church, and is now a concert hall.  We took an early morning hike up to the Fortessa, the beautiful old ruins of the16th century fort that stands high over the old town and harbour.  Our reward for the climb wasn't just the spectacular views from the top; there's a small church at the top of the fort that has a beautiful stone dome, and the breeze at the top was so refreshing on this hot morning.

From Rethymno we began our 'return visits' to places that we loved during our 2015 summer holiday in Crete -  to Vamos, Vrysses, and over the mountains and back to the Libyan sea, to Sfakia.  We stayed in some of the same accommodation, enjoyed renewing acquaintances, and revisited a few favourite tavernas.

Five days at our favourite white village on the Libyan sea was a holiday within a holiday.  We spent the days swimming, boating around to quiet bays and coves, snorkelling to marble sea caves, reading, and did a small hike into the beautiful, deep Aradana gorge.

Rethymno's pretty harbour

Casa dei Delfini

Next door to Casa dei Delfini is Hammam, a restored
Turkish hammam.  It's beautiful.

The second generation lyra maker of Rethymno, Nikos Papalexakis.

Rethymno wooden balcony

The harbour is lined with tavernas, a lovely place for a cool drink.

The Ottoman mosque is now the town concert hall

This old baker was selling flaky pastry animals of all description!

From the top of the Fortezza

They weren't very tall back then.

The stone dome in the mosque of the Fortezza, Rethymno

Venetian Rimondi Fountain, clear, cool drinking water.

A return visit to Yiorgos at his beautiful organic garden of
Arkoudaina in the hills near Episkopi.  This is his 49 ingredient salad.

And these are his stuffed zucchini flowers and Horta with garlic.

Early morning Vrysses

Back to Vamos

The beautiful Lefka Ori (White Mountains)

Then on the ferry to our favourite Libyan sea hideaway.

So good to be back.

Floating away

Dinner at dusk

And swimming by night

We took a boat around the bay to this fabulous location

This is the exit of the beautiful Aradena Gorge

Hot rumours abounded that this was JLo on vacation in Crete...mmmm?

Red moon rising

Unbelievably clear water

And caves to explore

Marble sea caves

The best beach taverna - it has no name!

Tiny pebble beaches in marble sea caves

Flat peaches are sooooo juicy and delicious

Aradena Gorge's orange cliffs provide shade from the sun.

Diving in, Mr Three Summers

Flat peaches and local yoghurt - best breakfast

Just a short hike today with some goats for company.

Fun Fact:  Cretans, particular those of the mountains and more remote parts of the island, love their guns.  There isn't a road sign that isn't peppered with gun shots; target practice, hi-jinx, or anti-establishment messages, who knows?  This note left on our bedside table amused us.

 

Sure enough, during the dead of each night shots rang out.
Because of this delightfully useful note we 'just turned over and went
back to sleep'!