dot dot dot ..... OS

From Santorini our itinerary is northwards through the Cyclades or in Greek, the Kyklades.  First to tiny, volcanic Folegandros, then Milos, Sifnos, Paros, Antiparos, Naxos, Mykonos, and Syros.  Notice anything?  I tried to find out why so many of the Cycladic islands end is OS.  Mostly my question was answered with, well a bit of a Greek shrug really.   Best explanation I could come up with is something about masculine and feminine nouns, but then there are exceptions to the gender of nouns and it all got a bit confusing.  An easier explanation to understand is why this group of about 200 islands is actually called the Cyclades.  The islands form a circle around the sacred island of Delos, and in Greek circle is kyklos.  Hence, Kyklades (and perhaps os is to be like Delos?).

First stop.....

FOLEGANDROS

Our delayed ferry from Santorini delivered us to the tiny port of Karavostasis well after midnight.  Our host Constantinos was waiting for us at the port to drive us to the apartment.  It was only about 10 minutes away but we appreciated his kind welcoming hospitality at that time of the night.  Constantinos said that ferries to Folegandros can often be delayed and it's not unusual for him to be popping down to the port during the night to meet his guests.

The beautiful port of Karavostasis, gorgeous clear water and
lane ropes and a pontoon for lap swimming in the sea.  How wonderful!

Just a few steps from our apartment.

Three kilometres up the hill from Karavostasis is the capital, Chora.  It is
everything that makes you fall in love with Greece.  Unbelievable views,
tiny town squares filled with shady cafes and tavernas, white draped
with pink everywhere, and an ancient Kastro - a medieval village
within the walls of a 13th century Venetian castle.  
This is the adorable cafe in Pounda Square,
where the crockery, all blue, white and Aegean mint green, is
actually made by the owners during the winter months. Sigh. 

At Chora, the Church of Panagia and its zig-zagged
stone pathway sits on the top of the cliffs.  A sheer and
jagged drop down to the Aegean.

Folegandros is just picture postcard perfect.  We loved
our four days there so much.

In Folegandros, like most of the inhabited islands of
the Kyklades, it is usual to still see traditional ways of life.
Farmers don't live on their farms, they live in the villages
and daily travel to and from their fields or terraces, usually by
donkey, sitting on a wooden saddle, carrying their katsuna.
We always give them a 'kalimera' and a wave, they will always
give us a smile and nod right back.

We rented a moto in Folegandros and explored this small
island from north to south.  It was exhilarating!
Folegandros is only 19kms from one end
to the other, but it's also mountainous and rocky.  Steep
rocky 'roads' down to glorious beaches and coves.
This is Angali.

We took a boat to remote Katergo Beach.  It has crystal clear emerald green water and an island to swim to, but it has not one inch of shade, so between a sandy cleft in the rocky cliff we made a sun shelter from our beach towels and my pareo.  Voila!  Perfect place to hang and read between swims.  The little boat puttered back a few hours later to pick us up and take us back to Karavostasis.  I told you, Folegandros is perfect.

It was hard to leave Folegandros.  Not going to say any more about this
unspoilt, tiny jewel.  Lest the secret gets out : )

FUN FACT:  Folegandros's lemon trees are protected from the winds by tall stone walls built to circle the trees, they're called lemonospita, or 'lemon-houses'.  The winter winds rip off any branches or leaves that grow taller than the stone walls.

Santorini 3.0

This is our third visit to beautiful Santorini.  First in 2015 we stayed in a cave house in Oia, then a couple of weeks later on a wayward ferry boat travelling from Naxos to Milos, we found ourselves in Santorini again.  We didn't know the ferry was scheduled to call into Santorini on the way to Milos and our unexpected visit was perfectly timed as we sailed across the caldera and watched a stunning sunset. A quick stop at Port Anthinios, then back across the caldera as the rose gold sun dripped off the white villages high on the caldera cliffs and slipped into a velvety sea. Whilst we didn't set foot on Santorini that time, it was so spectacular we still refer to it as our second visit.

This visit we decided to explore parts of Santorini new to us.  There is so much to see on this tiny old volcano, so instead of staying in one of the cliff top towns, Fira, Imerovigli or Oia, we decided to try and escape the inevitable July crowds for a 'quieter' stay - so we chose a seaside village, Perissa, with its black beach.

We stayed in Spirodoula's villa - just a simple room with balcony but with a panorama of a view. To the left Mesa Vouno, a magnificent mountainous rock cliff that rises perpendicular to the ocean. To the right the blue dome of Santorini's largest church, Timiou Stavrou, all this framed by the blue, blue Agean beyond.

Highlights during this visit were the archaeological site of Akrotiri; seeing the Red Beach and swimming at the Black Beach; a visit to Boutari winery; dinner overlooking a golden sun-drenched valley at Metaxi Mas; meeting Stavros each morning at Perissa's Santa Irini Bakery; and what I think is the number one thing to do in Santorini - hike the coastal path along the cliffs high above the caldera, from Fira to Oia.

The bell tower and blue dome of Timiou Stavrou at Perissa.

Perissa really is a black beach.... soft, black volcanic sand.

This is one view from our window, the massive cliff of
Mesa Vuono rock, and the tiny, tiny chapel, Panagia Katefiani.
At the base of the rock are the remains of the 5th century
basilica Agia Irini, or Saint Irene which is where
Santorini gets its name.  

Also taken from our apartment window, the spectacular
five-domed Timiou Stravrou

I took the first bus, 6.45am, from Perissa to Fira to hike the caldera path in the early morning.  This first bus of the day was a sightseeing trip of its own as we trundled around for an hour picking up (mostly) locals on their way to work and dropping them at various locations along the way. The 20 minute trip to Fira took an interesting hour.  Fira was still asleep at 7.45, nothing yet opened, just a few people in the main square and delivery trucks unloading supplies to the front of cafes and tavernas.  I had read a tip that as the path out of Fira can be a bit confusing through the maze of alleys and lanes, to just keep heading up, up, up and if there is a fork, take the left.  This was a good tip, and very soon I was heading out of Fira on the old cobblestoned path and towards it's little neighbour, Firostafani.  Every step of the way along the top of the caldera is breathtakingly gorgeous and spectacular.

The coast path takes around 3 hours, less if you run, and more if, like me, you stop every 5 minutes to marvel at the view and take another bucket of photos.

Belltower and dome at Fira

Caldera village views are a lovely jumble of white and blue,
cubes and domes that sparkle as the morning sun touches them.

This is Skaros Rock

From Skaros Rock, this is my destination way over on the right, that's Oia.

I think I was their first customer that day!  Coffee almost up
in the clouds.

The path leads through the villages, all whitewashed and blue.

Oia seems a long way away....

Yep, I think that sign sums it up pretty well (and there's Oia still teasing me
in the distance around the curve of the caldera cliffs).

Every single step of the trail is spectacular.  Along the way
taverna signs encouraging a little detour.

A few hours later, from a little church at the to top of
the final hill, there's Oia!

The trail is not flat, it's steep in parts and it's often rocky and uneven
so I have to watch my feet, and that's why I had to stop so
often. Because while I'm watching my foot steps I'm missing
the astonishing view.  So then I have to stop, take in the view,
 more photos, and then just close my eyes and take in the rest;
the breeze, the smells, the sounds.

I made it!  And I probably clocked up the record for the
longest time to make the 11.5km distance.   Start early
(or very late in the afternoon) because by 11.00am there's
nowhere much to hide from the blazing sun.  As you arrived
down the last descent and on the outskirt of Oia there is
a little market, and the bottle of cold sparkling water I
bought tasted so sweet.  (There is also a little blue hut at about the
3/4 waymark and a glass of the freshly squeezed orange juice there is an
excellent idea.  It gives energy for the final bloody mountain!

We've often said that one of the joys of travelling in Greece is the people we meet.  We chanced upon Santa Irini bakery, and we met Stavros the owner.  Well everyone that goes there will meet Stavros because he greets every one of his customers, thanks them for coming, helps them to make their choices from his amazing range of freshly baked bread, pastries, traditional pies, and then pops a little something extra into each purchase - a breadstick or a biscuit or two.  Stavros's whole family works in the bakery; his son makes the coffee - perfect every time.  We went there every morning, and every morning Stavros was there to welcome us.

Kind, kind Stavros

Every morning began in Stavros's bakery.  Stavros would ask
us where we were going for the day, and then gave us tips
about what to do when we're there.  He always asked us
why were were going so early!  So funny.  Greeks stay up late
and start the day late.  We're in bed by 9.00pm we told him.
We also said it was the secret to seeing the best sights
without the inevitable crowds in the Greek summer.

The terrace of our favourite Santorini restaurant, Metaxi Mas.  Not overlooking
the Caldera, but the other side of the island overlooking the green rural valley
with its fertile volcanic soil, mountains and sea in the distance.  So, so wonderful.

Metaxi Mas Taverna

We rented a car for a couple of days and our first destination was to spend a morning at the archaeological site of Akrotiri.  It's just a 10 minute drive from Perissa,  it's by the sea on the southwest corner of the island and it was built around the 5th century BC as the URBAN centre of the Aegean, a trading harbour, and bustling centre.  It's a Bronze Age settlement that was completely buried in the volcanic ash that settled after the great eruption of the volcano around 1600 BC.  The site is astonishing!  The size of the archaeological site is massive, and the excavated part is protected by a structure built right over the top so that we are walking through the excavations but inside a building. Such a comfortable change from walking over archaeological sites in the hot Greek sun!

Akrotiri is sometimes called 'the Minoan Pompeii'.  The streets were paved with
cobblestones, there were clay pipes, running water and toilets.  We saw rooms filled with
pottery, amphorae jars, bowls, jugs.  You can see the original decoration on some,
curling patterns and arcs, and there are rooms with frescoes on the walls!

Some room were workshops of the traders.

Bronze Age structures, two and three storeys high!
Incredible.

This is the sign at the beginning of the coastal path that leads around the
headland to the Red Beach.  It doesn't seem to deter anyone.
There is a steady stream of hikers on this treacherous path.
All the way the volcanic rock is sharp and and very uneven.  That's
probably why, just near this sign, was a mobile pharmacy
hut.  Cuts and scratches, and worse, are obviously common.

The coastal path around to the Red Beach.  With the sun
shining on these rocks it really does look blood red.  

See the line of hikers making their way down to the wide section of beach.
There is a boat from Akrotiri that, for 5 euros, will transport much
more safely to the waters of Red Beach.

The Red Beach in the distance.  No risk of landslide for
us.  That's as far as we went.

Hold on to your hats!  The view will blow you away.  It
looks like the cliffs are snowcapped.  No, they're white
Cycladic villages 1,200m above the sea.

The vines in Santorini are not staked like traditional vineyards.  They're
trained and trimmed to form a natural basket, right on the ground.  The
delicate growing grapes drape inside the basket and are protected
from the strong summer winds.  During the hot summer, overnight moisture
is trapped inside the basket providing water.  

The Santorini grape, the assyrtiko.  It's been cultivated on Santorini since
ancient times.  See the way the grapes rest within the wooden basket formed
by the vine.  It's genius really.

The Mediterranean good stuff.

Such as strange experience.  Soft, but gritty, BLACK sand.
The boards are necessary to get to the water.
In the midday sun the sand is HOT HOT HOT.
The water though is crystal clear and so refreshing.

From our apartment, see the tiny, tiny Panagia Katefiani.
Apparently it was used as a refuge from invaders.  In fact,
the greek word for refuge is 'katerfio'.

You know me, I can't resist a bougainvillea snap.

Another day, another hike.  Here we are at the highest village,
Imerovigli.

It's beautiful in the early morning before the crowds.

Looking back to Fira.  That's the Atlantic Hotel and the main
square at Fira, Plateia Theotokopoulou.  The dome, bell tower,
and arches of the white-washed Orthodox Cathedral of
Ypapanti.  

Our ferry to Folegandros was delayed by a couple of hours,
so again we got to enjoy an extra Santorini sunset.  This time
sitting with legs over the pier at Port Athinios.
'Everything is golden'.

Fun Fact:  Santorini is actually called Thira.  The locals refer to it

as Thira,  not Santorini.

Holiday short stories

Katsuna

During our previous trip to Crete I had admired the traditional Cretan walking stick, the katsuna.  Handmade in the mountains and used by shepherds and the elderly, it is also a symbol of Cretan pride and strength.

I asked Babis if he knew where I could buy a katsuna.  Not one of the thin, pale wood numbers made for the touristic market, but an authentic one of mountain wood - strong and rich in colour.

Babis said he would ask his friends, and the next day he said that some families in the next village were meeting for a celebration after church.  Over the past winter they had completed some renovations to their church and were having a traditional feast to celebrate.  He said that we were invited and that his friend may have a katsuna that I would be interested in.

'Follow me, we go slow, the roads are very rough' said Babis and he took off leaving us to try and keep up through the winding, dusty tracks that link the villages in the eastern foothills of Mount Ida.  The 'black arrow' was no match for Babis's familiarity with his mountain roads.

We will never forget the setting of the ancient little church under the shade of massive wild oak trees, and the families who welcomed us and shared their traditional lunch of Cretan salad, boiled lamb, lemon rice, bougatsa, homemade wine and raki, apricots and graviera cheese made from their sheep's milk.

We laughed a lot as Babis translated for us, and one by one we were offered a cup of each family's wine, each offerer proudly pouring their homemade wine from a plastic water bottle and then waiting for our reaction after we tasted it.  Each one thought their wine or raki was the best and wanted to know if we agreed!

After a couple of hours we started saying our thanks and goodbyes and one of the group placed in my hand a beautiful rich wooden katsuna.  So smooth, and with a perfect elegant hook, I admired it and whispered to Babis 'how much for this beautiful katsuna'.  Babis lowered his eyes and said quietly, 'we cannot talk of money, it would be insulting to them, they want you to have it as a gift'.

I now understand the meaning of the word, peskesi.  It is of Turkish origin and it's used in the folk Greek language and Cretan dialect, and it means an unexpected gift as a sign of friendship and hospitality.

We will never forget the beautiful Cretan people we met that afternoon around the little church near Ano Asites.  Their generous and beautiful gift will always remind us.

The end

This is Babis leading us to the gathering of his friends
outside the terrace of the little church on the side of a hill.

The tiny church under the massive wild oak trees where, once
again the Cretan people extended their friendship and hospitality
and we learned about peskesi.

Yaimus!  A viva!
(I think this was the final time Mr Three Summers
has drank raki on this trip, must have been the
of 38 degrees day ;)

Everyone shared the huge pot of boiled lamb on the bone, lemon rice
and Greek salad, and in addition each family bought some of
their own produce to share, hard cheese, apricots, melon, cake, sweets,
wine and raki.  The setting was beautiful, under the giant trees beside the
terraced olive groves.

This delicate flaky bougatsa was delicious!

Katsunas lined up in a taverna

'Adults in the Room'

My name is Robyn and I have a problem.... with books when I travel.

In which ever country we are travelling I only want to read books, fiction and non-fiction, that relate to or are set in that particular country.  For months prior to a trip I research and track down authors and titles that I think will add something to our in country experience.  Once our trip has commenced I also find myself hunting down book stores to peruse national authors whose books may have been translated into English.  Sometimes, if I have a current book as well as a next-in-line-to-read,  I surreptitiously take photos of bookshelves in store so I can buy or download a local title when needed.

Mostly so I can remember the beautiful authors and stories I've read during our travels, I keep a widget list in the right side bar of the home page of this blog.

This trip is no different, the first three books I've read have been stories and non fiction set in Crete.  Satisfying and enjoyable, all three.  Then I added a title to my kindle that had sparked my interest when it was recently published, Adults in the Room by Yanis Varoufakis.

Yanis Varoufakis, born in Athens, lived in Australia for many years lecturing at Sydney University, and I first heard of him years ago when he sometimes appeared on current affairs segments on Australian television.

In 2015 when we spent a summer in Greece, Varoufakis was Greece's Finance Minister.   He led negotiations during the debit crisis before the bailout referendum held on 6 July 2015. We were on the island of Naxos in the Cyclades when the referendum took place. I remember all over Naxos and neighbouring islands that we visited, the slogans "Oxi" "Nei" graffitied on buildings, poles and public property.  On 6 July we watched the locals attend the polling stations in the schools to cast their vote.

But back to this trip.  Three books competed, House of Dust and Dreams, The Island, and The Golden Step.  Tick.  All great stories about Crete, the people, history and the earth.  Time for me to move on to 'Adults in the Room'.

I'm not far in, probably a fifth of the way through when, on the breakfast balcony overlooking the Libyan Sea one morning and Mr Three Summers is already taking his first dive into the crystal clear water,  I decide to linger over an extra coffee and read a for a while.

A couple arrive at the next breakfast table. I look up, 'kalimera', I say and go back to reading.  'Kalimera', they reply as they sit down.  It's the chorus that everyone chirps at breakfast in Greece.

My eyes shot up again from my book.  I blink to make sure my eyes are not deceiving.  There, sitting next to me, was the author of 'Adults in the Room', Yanis Varoufakis.

I wish I could calculate the mathematical chance of reading a book only to look up and find yourself looking at the actual author?  Reader, book, author in the same destination in this big, wide world.  I guess that the answer would be 'one' in a very big number.

The end

Yanis was friendly and gracious and happy to chat.
  When I show him that I was currently reading his latest book
he suggested a photo, as he couldn't sign the front page
of my kindle.  

Earthquake

"What are you doing..... stop it", I sleepily moan while being shaken awake.  It was 11.30pm, Saturday 18 July, and Mr Three Summers was sitting on the side of the bed, "I'm not doing anything", was his reply as our extra large king size bed in Heraklion's Megaron hotel shook in waves.

Backwards-forwards-backwards-forwards the bed rolled as our eyes grew larger and larger.

"Earthquake", we said simultaneously.

Twenty seconds seemed longer than it actually is before the sensation of our surroundings returned to normal.  I think I swore first.

Within minutes it was happening again.  I think we swore simultaneously.

My first rule with breaking news, nationally or internationally, is to check Twitter.  Sure enough, within minutes a global monitoring organisation had reported the location of the earthquake 40 kilometres away on the south coast of Crete, the size of the earthquake and its aftershocks.

It was kind of difficult to go back to sleep on that summer night after the earth moved for us!


The End.