Saturday, 30 July 2011

Alas, poor Yorick!

We left Copenhagen and headed to the northern tip of Zealand - to Helsingor.  On a spit of land overlooking the sea is Kronborg Slot - Hamlet's Castle.  It is a UNESCO world heritage site and once a year, each August, Hamlet is performed in the Castle's courtyard.  That's a production I'd love to attend.

The coastal drive from Copenhagen to Helsingor is beautiful.  The coast is dotted with lovely towns, fishing villages and beaches.  The weather was fine and sunny and we dipped our toes in the water - freezing cold water! There were however plenty of swimmers.  I guess this is why Scandinavian swimming is described as 'invigorating'.

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is also along this coastal drive.  It is a beautiful museum set in green lawns with a sculpture garden overlooking the sea.

So, a day featuring a Renaissance castle, fabulous Museum, stunning coastal drive should be enough for anyone.  The highlight for me though was a visit to the small town of Rungsted to visit the 400 year old ancestral home of Karen Blixen.  I knew nothing of Karen Blixen until in the 80s I saw the film Out of Africa,  which remains to this day my favourite.

In 1913 Karen Dinesen married her Swedish cousin and became Baroness von Blixen.  They moved to Kenya where she "had a farm in Africa at the foot of the Ngong Hills".   Karen Blixen was an independent and adventurous woman; a story teller and writer.  She grew coffee in Africa at an altitude where coffee had never before been grown.  She divorced the philandering Baron and safari-hunting Denys Finch-Hatton became her big love. Her home in Rungsted is furnished with classic Danish pieces that sit beside furniture she bought back from her life in Africa.  There, in the sitting room, is the studded brass chest given to her by Farah - her ever faithful Kenyan servant; and also the chair favoured by Denys as he sat and listened to her stories.  In the attic at Rungsted we too sat and listened to recordings of Blixen telling her stories.


From Helsingor harbour


Courtyard of Hamlet's Castle

The 60m long banquet hall, complete with
original tiled floor
From the tower looking out over the Oresund to Sweden

There's a legend that says a Viking chief is sleeping in the cellars
and he will awaken if ever Denmark needs to be defended.

Karen Blixen's home at Rungsted


What a thrill to wander around her home which
contains many carvings, ivory and artifacts from African
 home at the foot of the Ngong Hills.

I loved her elegant sitting room

It was a beautiful drive along the coast from Copenhagen to the
north coast with many thatched roof homes along the way

In a front garden along the coastal drive the stump of an old
felled tree remains as a work of art.  It has been carved
 into an exquisite bird sculpture

 That's what I mean about Danish design.  It's everywhere.

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