PompeiViva!

On a warm summer's day in 79 AD Mount Vesuvius exploded spewing a cloud of ash, rock and toxic gas many kilometers into the air, which then rained down on Pompeii and entombed the city and 2,000 of its inhabitants.

On a warm summer's day almost 2,000 years later signore and I walked around the excavated streets and buildings of this once grand and prosperous Roman trading city.

Casts of the bodies of Pompeiians make it easy to be moved at the tragedy that resulted from the great shift of the tectonic plates, however I was also impressed by the slogan "PompeiViva". Pompeii Lives because we can walk around it and see and understand Roman life as it was. Pompeii Lives because vineyards and vegetable gardens have been planted throughout parts of this archialogical site, and Pompeii Lives because the huge amphitheatre is being restored so that it can be used again.  PompeiViva!

Pictures tell the tragic story of Pompeii better than words.

Pompeii street

The necropolis - many of the tombs along the street have Latin
inscriptions still visible.

The Garden of the Fugitives - tragic sight of victims overcome by
Vesuvio's fury.  These casts lie in an area that is now cultivated
as a vineyard.

One of the many thermopolia - an open space on the
roadside with a stone bench and spaces where terracotta  jars
would have been placed to store food in.  Food and drinks
were served to passers-by.  Pompeii café really.

Stucco ceiling and sculptures of the baths.

One of the frescoes at the Lupanare (the brothel).

The Forum I

The Forum II - these are the monumental bases for large
commemorative statues.  The statues have never been found.

Roman road signs.....two stones means one-way traffic.

Four stones means two-way traffic. Very clever because the stones
also served so that pedestrians could cross the road without getting wet.

Porta Nocera dates from the 4th century BC.  It stands at the
 beginning of the road that leads to the city



Cave Canem - beware of the dog! The beautiful mosaic at
The House of the Tragic Poet.

Another of the thermopolia -  'snack bars' or cafes of Pompeii.

The columns of the large atrium villas.

Pompeii Lives!

Our day at Pompeii was fascinating - such a special place and amazing to see the current excavations. Mount Vesuvius didn't reveal itself that day, its active cone was shrouded in cloud.  Funny, because the destruction it caused thousands of years ago was clear to see. PompeiViva!

Introducing.....Sophia Lorenzo

We left Rome on a train from Termini heading for the Citroen dealer on the city's outskirts, near Fumicino airport. Ready and waiting for us was little DS3 Sport, Sophia Lorenzo. She's a bit of a siren....red and fast. Here she is.....

We still believe that the red number plates are to warn local
drivers as we negotiate Italian roads and villages.

"She's a good little car, that one."
 

She's small so parking is no problem....well not for anyone
in Italy really!

Sophia's very first kilometers were consumed down the autostrada, around Napoli and to Pompeii where we stayed at the lovely family-run Amleto Hotel. We chose this hotel as it is only a short walk to one of the gates to the Pompeii archaeological site.

Roman Holiday

I cannot think of a lovelier activity on a Sunday afternoon in Rome than to promenade along the Tiber and wander through the maze of cobbled alleys and streets that is Trastevere. Literally 'trans river', or 'over the Tiber', Trastevere is a charming neighbourhood in this large and chaotic city.  It is often described as 'authentically Roman'.  It's Rome's left bank, and we are staying on the third floor apartment of a rustic pink stucco building on Via dei Vascellari.  Our afternoon wanderings take us to Tiber island - Tiberina - across Ponte Fabricio, the bridge built in 62BC.  It was warm and sunny so of course gelati from Caffe dell'Isola was just the thing.  Actually signore opted for a chilled Nastro Azzurro, rather than gelati.  We wander the grey cobbled streets and lanes, look up at the ivy covered buildings, then sit for a while and watch la passegiata - and again resume our own passegiata (slowly, slowly remember - it's a stroll).....buonasera, bounasera, bounasera is exchanged with passers-by.

It's 34 years since signore and I visited Rome.  Not much has changed it seems - except us.  We look older and Rome looks more beautiful than ever on this warm primavera evening.  We've allowed just a few days to revisit some favourite spots, as the Italian countryside and the sea is calling.

Santa Cecilia's Basilica is just a few steps away from the apartment and so it is our first destination.  Actually the bells call us to visit and to see the Stefano Maderno statue of Saint Cecilia lying at the altar,  the beautiful frescoes and courtyard garden.

5th-century Santa Cecilia in Trastevere

Santa Cecilia's frescoed ceiling

Under the alter the baroque white marble sculpture of Saint Cecilia.

Ponte Fabricio is the oldest bridge in Rome.  It was build in
62 BC and I had to read the inscription twice ....that's a very old bridge.

Lovely Trastevere I - stopping for an aperitivo.

Lovely Trastevere II

La Passieggiata - a most Italian and most beautiful time of day.

Our third floor apartment - via dei Vascellari

We took the numero 8 tram to Largo di Torre Argentina and spent the morning walking through the historic center visiting the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campio de' Fiori, Castel d'Angelo and on to the Vaticano.  The sky is blue fluffy with clouds, the sun is warm and the eternal city is casting it's spell on us. 

Each morning begins in Café Lillo and each night we eat in either a romantic Trastevere trattoria, or a noisy and crowded pizzeria.

Largo di Torre Argentina Square where the Roman Senate convened
and where Julius Caesar was killed in 44 BC.   

The stunning ancient Roman temple - the Pantheon

I love the Pantheon's ancient marble floor, the centre is concave
and the side are convex to drain the water.  I also love to slip
my shoe off and feel the cold, satin smooth marble on my bare foot.

Great suggestion L - thanks!

Fragola e nucciola, per favour.

Vaticano from via della Conciliazone.

Magnificent work, Michelangelo.  Sistine Chapel.

Dome of the Basillica.

Caffe time? Si. 

Fontana di Trevi.  There must be some truth to the
legend.  On 19 March 1979 signore and I threw coins into the
Trevi, and we did return - albeit 34 years later!

um....that's a lot of coins going into the fountain! 
This baroque hot spot was teeming with people.

A little rest on the Spanish Steps, a visit to Keats' house,
Babbington's Tea Rooms.....

...and a wander down via Condotti.

Arriverderci Roma.....

 

City of Gold

Turn a desert into a metropolis with 1,300 skyscrapers.....yes, they did!

World's tallest building on shifting sand.....yes, there is!

Ski down a snowy slope when the temperature is 40 degrees outside....yes, you can!

 

In fact, I think you can see, do, eat, buy, experience most anything and everything in Dubai. You can certainly shop at New York's Bloomingdales, or Paris' Galleries Lafayette, or eat gelati from Rome's Giolitti. 

 

At the moment we're marvelling at the engineering of building an archipelago of islands in the Persian Gulf that replicates the countries of the world - it's actually called 'The World' and controversial as it is (is it sinking?) it is amazing!  Also amazing is The Palm - an archipelago exactly resembling a palm tree.  We drove up the 'trunk' of the palm to the 7-star Atlantis hotel.  Along the 'trunk' alone we were told that there are thirty new 5- and 6- star hotels currently being completed.  The scale of construction, the canals and the water-front buildings are mind-blowing.  (It's a little concerning to think about who and how the construction industry source enough labour to work in this climate.)

 

We're staying in a 14th floor apartment, downtown on Emaar Boulevard - directly opposite the Burj Khalifa.  The view is extraordinary, the Dubai skyline is extraordinary, and any vacant land around the skyscrapers is.....well, it's simply desert sand.

 

Dubai is an oasis in this desert landscape, apart from the vacant blocks of sand, it's green and gardened and fountained at every turn.  It is hot....38 degrees yesterday, 40 today (relatively modest for the beginning of June say some of the Kingdom's locals), but air conditioned relief is only ever a few steps away. 

 

We took a dhow along Dubai Creek and watched these ancient boats still being used to transport goods.  I loved old Dubai and its contrast with the modern creation. We visited the souks, and got lost in its narrow lanes, and when 40 degrees seemed more like 50 degrees we jumped in a cab and went to Jumeirah Beach for a swim.

 

We shopped in the world's largest shopping mall, the Dubai Mall, with its own Olympic sized ice skating rink, aquarium and massive fountain. The shops in the mall are beautiful and the variety of luxury goods is astonishing.  The Emiratis in their traditional dress look elegant and cool.

 

At night the city positively sparkles, the fountains dance, and the temperature drops to a moderate 25 degrees.

 

Obviously, I didn't take this aerial photo.
It shows the amazing Jumeirah Palm Islands,
 and The World archipelago.

 

The Burj Khalifa dominates the Dubai skyline.

The view from one of our apartment windows.  Burj Khalifa can be
seen just to the left, the water in the centre explodes into
dancing fountains at night, and in the foreground is desert sand,
where an opera house was to be built, but since the GFC....well, it's still sand.

The beautiful Jumeirah Mosque - one of Dubai's 500 mosques.

When it became a little too hot for sightseeing we took ourselves
to Jumeirah beach for our very first swim in the (warm) Persian Gulf.

The Burj al Arab sits on the coastline and appears to be about to sail away.

By night Dubai sparkles, twinkles and shines.  This is Emaar
Boulevard at the base of our apartment.

Burj Khalifa by night.  Throughout the night
we watch its twinkling light show
dance from its base to its tip.

Beautiful cafes and restaurants. 
This one, just opposite the apartment, and
where we had breakfast each morning, is the Parisian café,
 Fournil de Pierre - open until 3.00am!

Traditional abra boats on Dubai Creek

In the 40 degree heat, you would think that sitting outside
would be unpleasant, however at most of the outdoor cafés and restaurants,
this one by Dubai creek, the outdoor air-conditioning makes it quite
pleasant.  They're not noisy, and in this Emirate I guess power
consumption is not a problem?

The Gold Souk in Al Khor Street.  Miles and
miles of merchants and markets of gold.



Inside the delightful Souk Madinat Jumeirah

Burj al Arab from one of the canals of the Souk Madinat.

I love the Dubai wind towers - a feature of the old Dubai skyline.
These wind towers are part of the modern Souk Madinat Jumeirah,
however all around Deira and old Dubai at the top of the buildings
can be see the differing designs of wind towers, designed to
capture and funnel air through buildings and at
the same time extract hot air.  Old design, very clever.