I cannot think of a lovelier activity on a Sunday afternoon in Rome than to promenade along the Tiber and wander through the maze of cobbled alleys and streets that is Trastevere. Literally 'trans river', or 'over the Tiber', Trastevere is a charming neighbourhood in this large and chaotic city. It is often described as 'authentically Roman'. It's Rome's left bank, and we are staying on the third floor apartment of a rustic pink stucco building on Via dei Vascellari. Our afternoon wanderings take us to Tiber island - Tiberina - across Ponte Fabricio, the bridge built in 62BC. It was warm and sunny so of course gelati from Caffe dell'Isola was just the thing. Actually signore opted for a chilled Nastro Azzurro, rather than gelati. We wander the grey cobbled streets and lanes, look up at the ivy covered buildings, then sit for a while and watch la passegiata - and again resume our own passegiata (slowly, slowly remember - it's a stroll).....
buonasera, bounasera, bounasera is exchanged with passers-by.
It's 34 years since signore and I visited Rome. Not much has changed it seems - except us. We look older and Rome looks more beautiful than ever on this warm primavera evening. We've allowed just a few days to revisit some favourite spots, as the Italian countryside and the sea is calling.
Santa Cecilia's Basilica is just a few steps away from the apartment and so it is our first destination. Actually the bells call us to visit and to see the Stefano Maderno statue of Saint Cecilia lying at the altar, the beautiful frescoes and courtyard garden.
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5th-century Santa Cecilia in Trastevere |
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Santa Cecilia's frescoed ceiling |
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Under the alter the baroque white marble sculpture of Saint Cecilia. |
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Ponte Fabricio is the oldest bridge in Rome. It was build in
62 BC and I had to read the inscription twice ....that's a very old bridge. |
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Lovely Trastevere I - stopping for an aperitivo. |
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Lovely Trastevere II |
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La Passieggiata - a most Italian and most beautiful time of day. |
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Our third floor apartment - via dei Vascellari |
We took the numero 8 tram to Largo di Torre Argentina and spent the morning walking through the historic center visiting the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campio de' Fiori, Castel d'Angelo and on to the Vaticano. The sky is blue fluffy with clouds, the sun is warm and the eternal city is casting it's spell on us.
Each morning begins in Café Lillo and each night we eat in either a romantic Trastevere trattoria, or a noisy and crowded pizzeria.
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Largo di Torre Argentina Square where the Roman Senate convened
and where Julius Caesar was killed in 44 BC. |
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The stunning ancient Roman temple - the Pantheon |
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I love the Pantheon's ancient marble floor, the centre is concave
and the side are convex to drain the water. I also love to slip
my shoe off and feel the cold, satin smooth marble on my bare foot. |
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Great suggestion L - thanks! |
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Fragola e nucciola, per favour. |
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Vaticano from via della Conciliazone. |
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Magnificent work, Michelangelo. Sistine Chapel. |
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Dome of the Basillica. |
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Caffe time? Si. |
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Fontana di Trevi. There must be some truth to the
legend. On 19 March 1979 signore and I threw coins into the
Trevi, and we did return - albeit 34 years later! |
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um....that's a lot of coins going into the fountain!
This baroque hot spot was teeming with people. |
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A little rest on the Spanish Steps, a visit to Keats' house,
Babbington's Tea Rooms..... |
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...and a wander down via Condotti. |
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Arriverderci Roma..... |
So glad you went to Giolitti!!!
ReplyDeleteah mi scusi....it was actually pistachio e nucciola. Delicious!
Delete34 yrs!!! And 62BC???!!!
ReplyDeleteOh my goodness, so much in this post too!
How crazy that one can age 34 yrs between visits, but the place essentially stays the same for centuries...
there's an existential crisis in the making right there ;)
Beautiful visions of Roma... :) xxx
I hope I see her beauty again...before another 34 years!
Delete