Astypalea - the butterfly island of the Dodecanese

Astypalea is affectionately know as the Aegean Butterfly due to its unique shape.  Just like a butterfly the two 'wings' of the island are joined by only 100m strip of land.  As we arrive on the Blue Star ferry from Ios via Naxos, the view of Chora, with its row of traditional white and red capped windmills high on the ridge, and the whitewashed houses tumbling all the way down to the port is spectacular.  Sitting atop Chora like a crown is the remains of the 13th century fortified Venetian Querini Castle, built on top of what was the island's ancient acropolis. 

Once again we divided our four night stay with two nights in a lovely beachside studio at Livadi beach, and two nights in Chora overlooking the harbour at Hotel Paradissos - a beautiful white hotel straight out of the 1960s.

Livadi is the most fertile part of Astypalea, down a zigzag of hairpin bends to a sandy beach with crystal clear water.  The area behind the beach has fruit orchards, vineyards and plots of kitchen gardens with their rows of green.  Livadi beach is fringed with tamarisk trees that provide shade over the sand and the tavernas and cafes leading on to the sand.  We had no need to leave Livadi for a couple of days - it has everything, and Mouras studios was spacious and comfortable with lush gardens and a shady terrace for our regular Greek breakfast of yoghurt, peaches, walnuts and honey.

We hadn't been able to rent a car despite trying months prior to our arrival, such is the demand during this extra busy summer.  It didn't matter though, innovative Astypalea has a unique system of electric on-demand ride sharing options;  just download the AstyGo app, fill in a few requirements including international drivers licence, and at your fingertips are: AstyBus the on demand mini-bus service; AstyCar, the by-the-hour car sharing; and AstyBike, e-scooters and e-bikes. Amazing!  Also trundling around the windy roads across the island are a few remnant 1E traditional buses.

We took a boat trip to neighbouring and uninhabited islets of Kounoupia and Koutsomitis.  Kounoupia is unique in that it has a narrow strip of land joining two hills that form a double beach - one beach facing the other!  Swim in one body of turquoise water, turn around, walk 50 paces and swim in the opposite body of turquoise water.  Added to this watery serenity is a rustic taverna built with palm fronds and serving fresh salads, seafood, and cocktails.  Stunning really.

Astypalea isn't all swimming and relaxing though, there's some exercise to be done to.  Hiking up to the top of the Chora to Astypalea's Venetian castle looks a little daunting, however the rocky stone alleys and steps that wind up through Chora do so slowly and meanderingly, and there is many a pretty corner to pause and take a breath and a few photographs.  Once up inside the Castle's walls, there is mostly only ruined remains of the stone houses and two blue-domed churches. there is mostly only ruined remains of the stone houses and two remaining towers. The panoramic view from the top is well worth the hike up....and down!

Astypalea crowned with its
castle atop of Chora