The Mani

2. The Mani Peninsula

In the past decade we have travelled over much of Greece and its islands however we had never been to the Peloponnese.  I was fascinated by one particular area of the Peloponnese - the middle peninsula that reaches into the Messenian Gulf, The Mani.

As we drive through the Peloponnese the majestic Teygetus mountains look unscalable and sheer, like a barrier through the middle of the Mani. If I strain my eyes I can see impossibly high zig-zagging roads, an isolated monastery. The never ending green of the olive groves then turns to a hazy purple before the pale grey rocks of the peaks.  

After a dizzying descent down switchbacks we arrive - the stone houses and towers and castle ruins of the traditional fishing village of Limeni and the turquoise and blue water of the Bay of Oitylon are before us.  A few fishing caiques are anchored in the bay, together with a few impressive modern yachts.  It's a stunning sight.

The afternoon sunset softened the sizzling day and we ate dinner on the stone terrace of our apartment, totally mesmerised by the view and the location.

We enjoyed three nights in this heaven.  Breakfasts on the terrace in the cool shadow of the tower, sipping tsai tou vounou - mountain tea from the Teygetus - and the water lapping below us.  Swimming and snorkeling three times a day,  more dreamy sunsets at the perfect location of Kourmas taverna, and evening strolls around the village admiring the old stone buildings, the bougainvillea and enjoying the lack of summer crowds in this more remote part of mainland Greece.

Maybe we should spend our entire six weeks' holiday here? 

The Mani peninsula is made up of outer Mani
(the northern part of the peninsula) and the wild,
rugged and remote south, or deep Mani.

Arriving in the Mani - down, down, down
the mountains, narrow roads, hairpin bends
and spectacular views to pretty coastal
villages.  This is Apollo - our tiny Fiat
Panda - he's tiny but mighty taking us
all over the Peloponnese. 

This is part of the stunning view from
just one of the windows of our
apartment, in a restored 17th century
stone tower, in the tiny fishing village
of Limeni.

 

Just a handful of stone buildings and 
tavenas, not a postcard or tourist shop
in sight.  And that heavenly clear, 
turquoise water!

Compact apartment but with windows
all around to drink in those views and 
catch any breeze.  We loved it.

Another window, another vista.

Just a few carved steps down into the
glorious water, complete with turtles!

Daily temperatures are milder here, down
to 34° but so easy to keep cool in this water.
and in our stone tower with its thick walls.

One of the best part of our Mani
travels is the absence of crowds.

First frappe of the summer -
first coffee in 4ish years.

Every wild fig tree is bursting with 
young fruit - another few weeks and
we'll be eating figs every day, straight
from the trees and warmed by the
sun - delicious.

In the north east of the Mani, at Gytheio,
on the foothills is this ancient marble theatre,
1st century AD.  It's always such a thrill
to stumble upon ancient ruins.