Sifnos

Sifnos is special.

From the first minute our eyes spot the port of Kamares, as the ferry approaches this little port nestled between two imposing mountains, to the walk along the main street beside the town beach and past pottery and ceramic galleries we could somehow tell that it was a special place.  Each time a ferry arrives at Kamares it's like a procession of arrivals, off the ferry, down the pier, along the quaint main street, and from there everyone disperses to apartments, villas, and villages.

We stayed five nights in Kamares, then another five on the other side of the island, at Platygialos.  Platygialos has the distinction as being the longest beach in the Cyclades.  Every inch of Sifnos's landscape is breathtaking.   In parts it is wild, rocky and remote.  In parts the terraced slopes and ancient stone walls march up and over hillsides as far as you can see.  Add to this the old stone dovecots, huddled white villages, a Kastro, churches on rocky islands, and beaches dotted with tavernas that are so close to the water's edge that a swim between the salad course and the grilled sardines is the accepted thing to do - all of this without masses of tourists - and what you have is a very special place, another seemingly perfect Cycladic dream.

Outstanding and beautiful, that's what it is; and did I mention the pottery and ceramics of Sifnos?Forevermore, when I think of Sifnos I will remember ceramics, dovecots, and the sun-kissed, breathtaking beauty all around.

From the verandah of Absinthe restaurant overlooking the
port of Kamares.  Mountains tower both sides of the bay.

The population of Sifnos is only a couple of thousand people.
Apparently a pious bunch as it has 365 churches!  This one in Apollonia.
Fifty meters one way was another,  fifty meters downhill was another.

Traditional Apollonia, this is the stone-paved 'to steno'.

Terraced hillsides of Sifnos and ancient white dovecots.
The terraces shine golden when the early morning sunlight hits them.

Kastro is an ancient village atop a domed rock.  We enter by passing
through the old stone passageway, the outer walls of the houses
form the fortified walls, and its tiny, narrow winding streets
lead to the ruins of the Venetian fortress.

Looking down from the top of Kastro is the island and
church of Seven Martyrs.

This is the perfect little harbour and village of Vathi.

The white church and monastery of Taxiarchis
looks as if it's floating on Vathi harbour (just like
its neighbour, the pink flamingo!)

The (long-in-this-part-of-the-world) sandy beach of Platiyialos.  

Exploring

High above the port of Kamares that nestles between mountains.

So iconic and distinctive is the architecture of the old dovecots
that their features are incorporated in newer homes and buildings.
This is a house built to resemble an old dovecot.

Discovering stunning Sifnos

Sifnos is synonymous with ceramics.  Potters workshops
and studios dot the countryside, the beaches, the villages. 

Like a kid in a candy store :)

This curious pottery is modelled on the old chimney pots
of Sifnos.  Every home displays one or many of these now-decorative pots.

Eco Sifnos.  Thumbs up Sifnos.

The white dovecots with their distinctive triangular shapes
containing smaller triangular holes, flat rooftops and
corner turrets. They can be seen all over the island .

Hiking day!
This time to the protector of Sifnos, the beautiful Monastery of
Chrissopigi, that sits on its own sacred rocky island jutting
out into the blue blue sea.  
It's quite a sight!

Arriving at Chrissopigi

The courtyard of Chrissopigi (and the old monks' room on the right)
leads to the tiny stone bridge and the double vaulted church and bell tower.

Past the Monastery and out on the rocky point is a marble
christening font surrounded by a little brass fence and gate.
And the rocks are smooth but honeycomb pitted. 

It really is the most beautiful location.

The rocks and the sea around Chrissopigi

Floating high above in the church is this model ship, a traditional
wood caique.  Such a strange and beautiful thing to see beside
the usual chandeliers and icons.  I read that it was a gift
from a Sifniot giving thanks for prayers that had been answered.  

These steps lead to a most excellent swimming location off the rocks.

This is the little channel between the rocks that makes Chrissopigi an
island,  and the arched stone bridge that links the two.

After our swim off the rocks at Chrissopigi we continued
our hike around the coastal path, past Apokofto bay, and on
to beautiful Faros.  This is looking back to Chrissopigi and
the crystal clear waters that surround it.

The coastal path to Faros

Arriving at Faros

A dreamy pink sunset at Platygialos and a 2.50euro
pitta gyros each for dinner on the beach tonight.  Delicious!

All over Sifnos are potter's workshops and ceramic studios.
This one, right on the beach at Platygiolos.  

I could easily fill a shipping container with these gorgeous pieces.

Up the mountain from Kamares, over the gorge,
high in the centre of the island is the hub, the capital Apollonia.
Named after the god Apollo.
Don't miss it, and its beautiful old pedestrian street - 'to steno'
with its cafes, jewellery stores, boutiques, churches and homes.

Hand drawn map of 'to steno' - the commercial
way of Apollonia.  I love these old signs that date
from 30 or 40 years ago when tourism became
a thing on Sifnos.

The beautiful patisserie of Gerontopoulos.  Don't miss it!

Perhaps our favourite part of Sinos.  The remote, wild north
to Heronissos.  We rode our moto there one day, and other
we took the slow, local bus.  Exhilaratingly beautiful!

Heronissos.  There is probably no more stunning a
location.  Anywhere.

Lunch on the beach at Ammoudi Taverna, Heronissos.

Old time potter, Kosta Depastas's ceramics workshop right on the beach at
Heronissos.

Kosta's ceramics.

Kosta was up for a chat... in Greek!

And a photo.

The peace and serenity of Platygiolos.

Oh God... then the day comes that you have to leave Sifnos.

FUN FACT:  One of the tiny, higgledy-piggledy, white villages we passed every day we were out exploring Sifnos is Exampela.  This delightful white stone village was the birthplace of Nikolaos Tselementes, born in 1878.  He is referred to as 'the father of Greek cooking', and he published the very first Greek recipe book in 1910.  They say every Greek kitchen has a 'tselementes', the name now used for 'cookbook'.