Ancient Crete

From Istanbul we transited through Athens and boarded our Aegean Airlines flight to Crete. Beautiful views flying south over the Aegean and its hundreds of islands.  Landing in Iraklion, the capital of this largest of all Greek islands, we collected our rental car.  He's small and stocky, red, he knows Crete like the back of his dash, he's ours for the next three weeks....and his name is Spiro!

Spiro took us down the number 1 national road directly to our first pretty taverna for refreshments and a study of the map.  Spectacular to be seeing the rugged and handsome green/grey rocky-hills and bare mountains, so distinctive  and familiar to what we've previously seen in Greece and the Ionian islands. Their bare nakedness dominates the view but provides a perfect backdrop to the beauty of the sparking greens and blues of the Aegean sea.

We spent our first Cretan night with Agyro at her beautiful apartments overlooking the sea. Just a few steps to a swim in that sparkling sea, and a sunny terrace to soak up the warm sunshine.  That night, another pretty taverna, a greek salad and some friendly locals meant that our Cretan adventures were off to a great start.

We're keen to see some of the ancient history of Crete, remains of the Minoan civilisation, Byzantine, Venetian, Ottoman empires, however our first days have been spent.....well, swimming at glorious beaches!  We travelled west, along the north coast to spend four nights in Kato Stalida and then Kissamos.  We took days trips.... Spiro led us to three spectacular beaches in three days.  First, it was over the mountains to the south west islet of Elafonisi beach. It's about 45 kms from Kissamos to Elafonisi and the winding mountain road passes typical villages, each with their old church, traverna, and road side stall selling local wine, olive oil, honey.  The way is also lined with flowering oleander, silvery-grey olive groves, carob trees, bee-hive boxes and spectacular scenery.  We descend and finally arrive back at sea-level.  Before us, the sea is jewel-like, crystal-clear and calm. It's stunning.

Love this useful sign on the side of the
precipitous, winding road.

Yes, the view was nice.  Deep shady gorge,
jagged cliffs, and glimpses of the sea.
We were heading for....

... the pristine and sublime Elafonisi beach.

Elafonissi's warm, clear water, and
sand-tinged-pink at the shore

The amazing carob tree, or in Greek, ksylokerato.
Apparently, for 1,500 years the seeds of the carob
pod have been used as a measuring unit. Irrespective
of the size of the tree or the pods, each seed weighs
exactly 2grams.  Amazing.

Beautiful Cretan food - baked feta, and
dakos.  It's easy to loose your heart to
dakos... crunchy oven-dried barley bread,
topped with sun-ripened tomatoes, rich red
and smell like summer, crumbled Cretan cheese,
olives, oregano... all splashed with God's olive oil.
Heavenly dakos.

Church at Kissamos harbour - I love
its pretty frilled domes.

We took a boat and sailed up the rugged Gramvousa
peninsula to this beautiful location, Gramvousa island
- pirate island - complete with Venetian fortress
built in the1500s in the shape of an isosceles triangle.
You can just see it on the top of the mountain.
The impressive rocky peninsula is dotted with
caves and coves that have been used over the
years by pirates and rebels.  

From Gramvousa we sailed on to the azure wonder
of nature that is Balos Lagoon.  Oh dear, the
beauty of Balos Lagoon is difficult to describe.

Exceptional swimming in this
divine location. We spent the afternoon
swimming and laying on
sunbeds on a small sand spit.

He sells sea shells by the sea shore.

One evening we left Kissamos to drive to Sfania.  We'd been told of a lovely taverna on the beach, where the sunsets are particularly special.  What we weren't told was of the spectacular drive over the mountain to this remote west coast village.  The views over the cliffs at the top of the mountain to the shore below were stunning. The road is winding, narrow and lacks guard rails in parts.  The odd grazing goat and donkey also provides 'interest' for the driver.  The ''Sunset" taverna sits right on pebbly Sfinari beach.  Such a beautiful night.  The hospitality in Crete's tavernas is legendary. Local produce, often cooked by mama using yia-yia's recipes, fish caught that day, and every meal concludes with a tiny chilled carafe of local raki, or rakomelo (raki with honey) accompanied by small sweet mouthfuls of the house dessert, fruit or pastry.  Every menu has a few dessert selections, but there's never an opportunity to order dessert because the complimentary house dessert and raki take its place!  This delightful custom is the taverna family's way of saying 'thank you for choosing us', it's charming and we love it.

Raki - transparent, and served chilled in a tiny carafe
after every meal.  It's about 37% alcohol, but
it's nectar in Crete.

It seems that every Cretan home and taverna
has a vine arbor.  The coolest and prettiest
place to sit in the summer.

Early morning coffee in Kissamos. An
activity that only men seem to practice.
And me.

I love these hand made sticks, 'katsuna'; and
beads 'kompoloi'  that many elderly Cretan's carry. 

Another day, another beautiful beach.
This time Falassana Beach which popularly
appears on lists of Europe's best 10
beaches, and is a favourite of the Cretans.
We first view Falassana from a hill high above,