Highland Fling

From a wharf beside the dockyard where the Titanic was built, we drove on to a ferry boat bound for Scotland.  Belfast was grey and drizzly, however we sailed into fine weather and the three hour crossing was calm.

Our first destination was St Andrews on Scotland's east coast.  Funny to have seen both east and west coast of this country in just a few hours.  St Andrews was a delightful couple of days, as senor's brother and sister-in-law had generously invited us to share their holiday in the Kingdom of Fife.  St Andrews has Scotland's oldest university, the remains of what was once it's largest cathedral, and probably the world's oldest golf course. An impressive combination for a small town.  The girls went shopping, the boys went to the pub, and together we drove to nearby fishing villages.  We ate at the local pub and from the hill overlooking St Andrews watched rehearsals for the next day's annual Leuchar's Air Show.  It was a wonderful two days and it passed far too quickly.

From St Andrews we headed north and as we approached Pitlochry, thinking about stopping for a coffee break, we noticed signs advertising that the Pitlochry Annual Highland Games was being held on Saturday 10 September.  It's sometimes difficult to keep track of the date (and the day) while on holidays, however when we arrived to see the centre of Pitlochry a-sway with kilts we knew that today was 10 September!  Light rain was falling and we asked in the cafe if the Highland Games would continue in the rain. "Ach, we're Scots, no matter what the weather, the Highland Games will never be cancelled!".  There was no decision, our coffee stop turned into an afternoon stop as we headed to the recreation ground for an afternoon to remember.

From Pitlochry we drove through the magnificent Cairngorms to arrive, later than we had expected, at Inverness.  It had been a day of almost too much delight.

We took the ferry boat from Belfast to Stranraer, south west Scotland.
We drove along the outstanding and unspoilt coastal drive before
 crossing Scotland to the east coast, St Andrews on the Firth of Forth.
 It was a sparkling blue, blue autumn day when we arrived.
This is the volcanic plug Ailsa Craig, off the west coast of Scotland.

Morning coffee in St Andrews.... there was Donald! 

The ruins of St Andrews Cathedral

The Royal and Ancient

Haggis, oatcake and wiskey sauce.
Doesn't look pretty....tastes buds love it!
Och aye.

Strathkinness's friendly tavern where
dogs are as welcome as people.

Middlewell Cottage, Knockhill by Nydie, Strathkinness
Thanks B, F and Sammy, we had a wonderful, wonderful time.

At Pitlochry the kilts flew during the 'heavy events';
putting the stone, throwing the hammer, tossing the caber, and
throwing the stone over the bar!

The great Highland Bagpipe bands competition

Old timers

The conditions were tough on the kilt hose

....and the Scottish terrier's hose

.....and the wee bairn's hose!

....but it made digging-in easier for the tug-o-war!

From the grandstand....tug-o-war, Highland dancers,
pipe bands.  The day had everything.

Cosy and warm Castle Tavern in Inverness

Inverness Castle from the tavern

Baa, baa black sheep....and polka dot sheep too.  Love them.

Heelan' coos

of the friendliest kind.

Crail

Crail harbour

In Inverness, we stayed with Mary McPherson in her
beautiful Victorian home.

In Scotland it's all about the tartan.  Not just kilts, but
tartan carpet, tartan upholstery.  The Inverness tartan-lit
bridge was a real treat!

The Ballys

If the prefix is 'Bally' then we must be in Northern Ireland!

Ballybogy, Ballycarry, Ballypatrick, Ballycormick, Ballygobbin, Ballycastle, Ballylinley, Ballymagorry, Ballyleigh, Ballyrashane, Ballymacree, Ballymena, Ballygalin.... and there's many more!

But don't forget lovely Ballymoney in County Antrim where we stayed with Elaine and her 16 year old Collie dog, Figero. Elaine runs probably the most luxurious BnB in all of Northern Ireland and her gourmet breakfast, served around the huge dining room table, set a new benchmark.   Ballymoney is just a short drive from the Causeway coast, where we were heading to see the Giant's Causeway, Carrick-a-Rede, and Dunluce Castle.  Landmarks and historical features aside, the countryside is a patchwork of colours bordered by a jagged and spectacular coastline.  We drove the coastal road all the way to Belfast.

One small island with so many differences.  Republic in the south; part of Great Britain in the north; kilometers in the south; miles in the north; euro in the south; Irish pounds in the north; the tricolour in the south; the Union Jack in the north (you'll see both in Belfast - though not together).  And, well we all know about the religious differences.

Belfast was a surprise.  Parts of the city centre have a young, modern vibrancy that I hadn't expected, however evidence of its complex and troubled past is not hidden away.  It's there on the streets, and painted on the sides of the buildings and while it's easy for visitors today to walk around the now seemingly peaceful neighbourhoods, it's impossible to know or understand the reality for those who lived, or are living, there.

As in London during this past summer, there were also riots in Belfast in June aimed at destabilising communities.  I was fascinated to visit, to see and to learn a little more behind the tragedies and atrocities, but in west Belfast I felt like I should be tip-toeing.

Before crossing into Northern Ireland we went  back to Senor's roots.
In a different century L, S and E's ancestors would have walked over this
ancient stone bridge at Killinkere, County Cavan

Now, that's a peat bog!

The fortifications at Ballymoney's local police station give
an indication that life there hasn't always been as tranquil and
peaceful as it is today.   

Dunluce Castle

The Giant's Causeway - tessellated basalt pillars.  Mesmerising.

The pillars rise up to form pedestals....

and platforms....

....and march down to the sea .

The tops of some of the columns are convex, others are concave.

The pooling water adds another dimension to this awesome natural wonder.

A front blew in while we were hopping along
the coast - wind so strong it would have blown
a dog off its chain!




So beautiful is the Causeway coast that we were constantly stopping 
to take in the views out to sea, or inland over the patchwork hills.

Belfast's City Hall.  Inside the dome there is a
whispering gallery similar to that in St Paul's
Cathedral in London.

Protestant areas were adorned with Union Jacks flying
from every light pole.

This loyalist mural in Belfast is a little chilling.
We walked up and down the street and the barrel of
the paramilitary's gun appeared to follow us so that it was
always pointing at us.

Shankhill Road mural

The Peace Lines - this one dividing the communities of Shankhill Road
 and Falls Road  - have stood for over 40 years. Communities have
voted that the Peace Lines stay in place until 2020.  

Gates in the Peace Line - once manned by armed troops, now at
 6.00pm every night the gates along the wall are secured and  locked
until the following morning.

Visiting Gerry's office

Bobby Sands mural painted on the side wall of
the Sinn Fein building in Falls Road.

The gorgeous Crown Bar, Belfast.  So ornate, outside...

....and inside. from floor to ceiling .

Europe's most bombed hotel.  Bombed some
30 times during 'the Troubles'.