The Sporades - Skiathos and Skopelos

This trip is again a mix of old and new; places that we have visited before and loved, and places new to us for exploring and getting to know.  It's lovely to revisit destinations that are familiar, like seeing an old friend, but there is nothing like that excitement of arriving to the bustling port of an 'new' Greek island and the anticipation of what will unfold in the days ahead, and how the island will reveal itself to us.

The Sporades islands are new to us; a small group of islands that stretch out into the cobalt blue Aegean just off the eastern coast of Greece. Only four of the Sporades islands are inhabited, and we're visiting two of them.  Skiathos and neighbouring Skopelos have long been on our wish list, so when we saw direct flights from Milan to Skiathos it was an easy decision to include both in our itinerary.

Just a three hour flight from Milan, we arrived at Skiathos's tiny international airport just after 10pm. I had been in contact with our accommodation host asking how best for us to get from the airport to the Villa late at night.  'Easy' was Nikos's quick reply, 'just hop on the local bus at the front of the airport, get off at bus stop number 17,  and we'll be waiting for you!"  And that's exactly how easy it was.  Skiathos has one main road that runs around the southern half of the island, the bus stops are numbered 0-26 and where ever you want to go just discover the relevant bus stop number and you'll arrive.  

Early on our first morning we headed down to the port seeking three things - warm, freshly baked spanokopita for breakfast, coffee for my huckleberry friend, and as Skiathos is all about beautiful beaches, a sailing trip for that day to take us around the coast to swim at some of the coves and bays only accessible by boat.  Success on all three!

 

Skiathos has a vibrant port lined with cafes and restaurants.

Skiathos

A boat trip to Lalaria beach and its 
fifty shades of turquoise water.

A perfect swim

Reunited with my favourite
white stone beaches.

Lalaria beach accessible
only by boat.

The beautiful stone arch of
Lalaria beach.

Turquoise water,
unlimited visibility!

Next was a visit to Tsougria island and lunch on the sandy beach.  It is believed that the Beatles tried to buy the island of Tsougria during their visit in 1967!

Nothing better than a beach lunch on a Greek island.

Water taxi takes us back to
Skiathos town

Back to Skiathos

Summer means laden fig trees.

Just three nights on Skiathos before we took the ferry to neighbouring pine-covered Skopelos and four nights in a gorgeous petite apartment in the old town.  We hired a car in Skopelos so we could spend the days exploring the island and its many hidden gems.  Our first discovery was the tranquil and idyllic Agnontas beach, population 20!  Agnontas is named after an ancient Olympian, Agnon, who returned victorious from the Olympic Games of 568BC.  Seemed appropriate to learn that fact with the Paris Olympics starting in a few days' time.  We enjoyed fresh sardines and salad at the beautifully styled Korali Seafood restaurant, and we returned to Agnontas each afternoon for yet another swim in the crystal clear water.

We trundled around the length of the island in our beat-up little rental car, north to Glossa, east to the stunning chapel-on-a-rock, Agia Ioannis Kastri, and through the centre of this pine-covered mountainous island to the Antoniou family Olive Oil mill.  You'll recognise the chapel on the rock if you have seen the first Mamma Mia movie, the one where Meryl Streep runs up the carved stone steps to join the wedding.  It is a spectacular location, and despite the heat there was no question of not climbing to the top just to experience the view.  There was definitely no running up those steep rock steps, though!

Pretty old town Glossa

Pita gyros - still the best €3 one can spend in Greece.

Spectacular coast of Skopelos and in the centre of the picture is Chapel of Agios Ioannis Kastri.

Those ancient stone steps were not for running up on this hot summer day.

The climb is always worth it for the view. The turquoise sea and the Aleppo pine forests
of Skopelos are stunning.

Back under the shade for a
swim and a cool drink at
Agnontas beach.

Shade is king.

Skopelos harbour

Skopelos old town.

So many steps.

Pretty corners everywhere.

So inviting.

Another view of the tiny chapel on the rock.

Beautiful pottery of Skopelos, and a
pretty birthday gift for someone special.

Loved this.

And we also loved the traditional Skopelos spiral cheese pie, Skopelitiki Tiropita,
made to order by Michalis's mother.

Skopelitiki Tiropita, so fresh and
delicate and crispy. Enjoyed on our balcony of our apartment in a cobbled alley of old town.

Skopelos hora

More beautiful corners.

It's a frappe day!

Aleppo pines of Skopelos

Kastani Beach

The Antoniou Olive Press, 
farming and pressing Skopelos's
amfissis and koroneiki varieties of olives since 1894.

There's a museum of the history
of the island's olive oil industry
and displays of every step in the 
production of this beautiful green-
coloured liquid gold. We bought a few tins then visited the local post
office to post them to our home. I really, really hope they arrive safely. 

The Italian Riviera - Liguria

It's a three and a half hour drive from Bellagio on the shores of Lake Como south to the Italian Riviera town of Rapallo, where we stayed three nights with Tina e Nino, probably the warmest, most kind Italian couple one could ever hope to meet.  Similar to us in age, with two adult daughters, Nino is a retired carabinieri, and both are natives of Rapallo.   They live in a spacious three bedroom apartment, with garden and shady terrace, in the heart of the beautiful, walkable Rapallo.  When we arrived, Nino parked our car for us in a nook next to the apartment where it stayed for the duration.  We walked the town, and the coastal path, and jumped on Tigullio ferries around the coast between Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, and the secluded bay of San Fruttuoso with its Romanesque abbey built between the 10th and 13th century.  No need for the car during these days and nights.

Those were perfect summer days. The whole of the Ligurian coast seemed scented with jasmine and gardinia, crickets had begun their endless summer chorus, and everywhere our eyes seemed to rest on beautiful Italian style - from the architecture of the villas draped with bouganvillea, to the decor, and the ornately painted facades of the buildings with their colourful shutters. Tina and Nino made great recommendations for the best restaurants in Rapallo and we enjoyed many Ligurian specialities.  My favourite meal without doubt was the 'silk handkerchief' pasta with pesto - Mandilli de Sae al Pesto.  The pasta was indeed so silky, light and delicate, and sitting under the mandarin and lemon trees eating silk-like pasta was indeed divine.  I loved re-visiting Portofino where we had wandered the pretty harbour with our daughters in 2011.  Go early in the morning, or later in the afternoon after the crowds and tours boats have gone, and don't just stay around the harbor front, walk around to neighbouring bays, up the hill behind the town, or to the Castel, go a little further afield, and you'll be rewarded with spectacular panoramic views, less people, and discoveries to remember.   It works almost anywhere in a European summer.

Our lunch stop on the way from Bellagio
to Rapallo.  Beautiful Boccadassa

Boccadassa with its tiny beach, crystal clear water and pastel painted buildings

Fritto Misto Boccadassa style

Paola in Rapallo

A boat trip to San Fruttuoso

A perfect day's outing

Refreshing dip in San Fruttuoso on
this hot sunny summer's day

There are two ristorante at San Fruttuosa, but we think Da Laura couldn't be beat

Beside the abbey and under the
dappled shade of sweet lemon trees
and mandarin trees, I had the finest
pasta with pesto - ever!

Wild boars of San Fruttuoso. We first
saw the boars on the beach where they ransacked people's picnic bags and happily ate a feast of focaccia and fruit. They then wandered into the Abbey! We've seen goats eat picnics on Greek beaches, but wild boars?  That was a first!

A highlight of any European
summer - juicy, flat, donut peaches.

The road to Rapallo

My afternoon swimming spot, and
a tiny hidden bay at Portofino.  Sublime!

Seems that very view around
Portofino is a glorious one

Like this...

...and this. Splendido!

Hot and sunny and a view to remember

Afternoon tea on this perfect 
summer's day

A shady verandah and a cool breeze

Italian style

Portofino

More Italian style

So beautiful

Italian boutiques for browsing

Afternoon swim here. So
refreshing at the end of a hot day

Portofino

Beautiful Portofino

We last walked around Portofino in
June 2011, and I loved doing it again

Italian summer tomatoes!

A walk around the coastal path, a
cooling swim at San Michele di Pagana and as you walk you'll be rewarded with the best views of the beautiful Italian villas in prime position over-looking the sea.

Back to Portofino, literally!

More Ligurian specialities

Decorated homes of Rapallo 

Oh, those seaside villas

San Michele di Pagana

Balconies, decoration and
flower pots

Rapallo colour

La vita e bella!