Thursday 29 September 2011

Malta and Gozo

The reason we chose Malta was simple.  We were chasing the sun.  The UK had been predictably autumnal (read cool/damp) and we were sure that the summer sun lingered somewhere in the Mediterranean.  We figured that Malta's rich history, about which we knew very little, together with its sunshine and warm sea temperatures would provide a perfect combination for a 10 day visit.

The date of our departure from Paris Orly to Malta coincided with the end-date of our 6 month lease of Cecile de France, our lovely and reliable Citroen DS3. And it was two somewhat sad faces that delivered her to the Citroen dealer adjacent to Orly airport just prior to our Malta Air flight.   Cecile was not quite the same vehicle that we had collected in Paris six months earlier.  She had been on a grand adventure and had developed character as the odometer dial on her round dashboard face spun around 40.000 times; she had a small chip in her broad smiling windscreen (courtesy of a particularly bad Polish road); a minor scratch on her right side external mirror (collected when an unnamed driver steered her just a little too close to a 500 year old stone wall while trying to avoid an on-coming truck in an exceedingly narrow Italian village along the shores of Lake Como); she wore European footwear from three nations - one Greek replacement tyre, one Spanish replacement tyre and two original French ones.  She had carried two of us, sometimes three of us, and sometimes even four of us and our luggage safely through 17 countries. 'She was a good little car, that one!'  Au revoir, Cecile.

We found summer again in Malta.  From the moment the plane touched down and for the next 10 days it was sunny and hot.   Malta is an island of stone and rock.  Not a pretty island by an means, however it has a raw and rustic beauty together with a somewhat dilapidated charm. Its creamy yellow stone and rock sits in stark contrast to its sparkling blue surrounds. This tiny group of islands has a fascinating history.  Its strategic position, virtually in the centre of the Mediterranean Sea, means that it has had a tough life over the centuries.  It has been home to the Greeks, Romans, French, Normans, Arabs and most recently British.  When we read the quote "nothing is more well known that the seige of Malta' we thought we'd embark on a intensive history lesson.

In the early 1500s the Knights of St John of Jerusalem were 'given' the islands of Malta by Charles V of Spain. The Knights were a group of militant Christians made up of men from many European nations and they had been living on the island of Rhodes until Suleiman the Magnificent (the great Ottoman Sultan whose marble bathroom senor and I bathed in during our visit to Istanbul in June) sent his great galleys to invade Rhodes and drive them from the island.  A few decades later Suleiman decided that the little island of Malta should be his as it would provide him a convenient stepping stone to Italy and then all of southern Europe. So again he sent his galleys to drive the Knights from Malta.  The battle that ensued - the Great Siege when the Knights defended their little island against the might of the Ottoman empire - provided us with a rollicking good read and a fascinating insight into the history of Malta and its people.

An entertaining welcome of traditional music and instruments
 in the arrivals hall of Malta's Valetta airport.  A few nights
later senor and I were relaxing after dinner when we heard
the rousing sound of bagpipes.  I headed out to investigate and
found a wedding underway in a nearby garden.  There, in full
Scottish kit a bagpipe band was welcoming the bride and groom.
Turns out it was the same group that played at the airport when
we arrived.  They're called Jackson Family, and Edmond Jackson's
story to revive the traditional Maltese bagpipe - the zaqq - is
an interesting one.  I never through that we would hear bagpipes in  Malta!
Valetta is Europe's smallest capital city. It was built after the
great seige of 1565, and as a planned city was built in a perfect
grid of straight streets, designed to confuse any future invaders.
Sun on one side, shade on the other.
These overhanging, enclosed balconies are the iconic feature
of Maltese architecture - the Maltese balcony.
....the range of colours, styles and features seems limitless.
..and we took literally dozens of photos of them.
here are just a few more....

I love them.
Atop the bastion walls of the old noble city, Mdina.  We sat
at this cafe and watched Malta's annual air show
From Mdina, this is Malta
Mosta Dome from Mdina. 
We stayed in the garden apartment of Maria and Roger's beautiful
villa.  From their extensive garden they provided us with olives,
sun dried tomatoes, peach jam, pomegranates, olive oil and herbs.
Coincidentally, their next door neighbour is...
....the Australian High Commission!  How nice to see that flag
flying every day.
We spent a day on this wonderful Turkish gullet sailing around
and swimming in the coves and inlets of Malta and the islet of
Comino. Glorious swimming.  That's Gozo in the distance.
Swiss Airforce were in town for the Malta Airshow 2011
Swimming in San Pawl il-Bahar - St Paul's Bay.  It is believed that
this is where St Paul was shipwrecked, and where the foundations
of Christianity  began in Malta.

Valletta sits on a rocky finger of headland with a harbour on
either side.  These are the city walls, dome of the Carmelite Church
and St Paul's Anglican church spire.
Sliema harbour
Just a few minutes walk from our accommodation is the
grand Palazzo Paradiso and gardens - once the palatial home of
Maltese nobility.  We visited a number of times - dinner in the garden
on a warm Saturday night was a highlight. 
Shady lunch in Gozo's Square, St George's Basilica
Senor's favourite fish salad in all the Mediterranean.
Gozo from the bastion of the Citadel, Victoria, Gozo.
Dwejra Point, west coast of Gozo. Amazing
geological formations.
The Azure Window, Gozo
Pretty in pots, however the prickly pear cactus is rampant all over
Malta.  It some places it has taken over to the extent that
farmers use it as fencing between their paddocks - great long
'walls' of it.
Piazza Regina and National Library Biblioteca, Valetta.
The beautiful chandelier and vaulted ceiling of Caffe Cordina,
established in 1837.
Malta vintage bus.  These buses have only just been retired by
Malta's bus system and replaced with new modern buses, similar
to those seen in any city.  What a shame, although considering
 the condition of Malta's roads, how ever did they last so long?
During our stay with Maria and Roger they
harvested their olives, and this is the result.
Their green/gold  olive oil is just a few hours old -
unbelievably good!
Peaking through the clouds on our flight back to Paris is
Sicily's Mount Etna.

Monday 19 September 2011

Menin Gate at midday


After leaving Scotland, we stayed in England just long enough to spend time in Surrey with E and meet some of the wonderful friends she has made during her gap year. On the way south we made an overnight stop in Harrogate (and a visit to the Royal Baths) and a quick visit to pretty Oxford.  Too quickly the time came to farewell E until our sunny Christmas reunion, and we departed via the white cliffs of Dover for Dunkirk.  We were on our way to Paris again, and wanted to visit Ieper (Ypres) in Belguim.

Pretty Oxford

Happy times in Surrey's lovliest pub, the Hare and Hounds,
with two of Surrey's loveliest residents.
Ypres

I was 11 years old the first time I saw Menin Gate.  I was standing next to my World War I veteran grandfather looking at one of the Australian War Memorial's best-known paintings, Menin Gate at Midnight.  My grandfather had been at Ypres and fought in the Battle of the Somme and I remember that he had to explain to me the field of steel-helmeted ghosts - fallen soldiers - around the imposing Menin Gate Memorial depicted in the painting.  Since that day, I've stood in the War Memorial's darkened gallery many times and Menin Gate at Midnight always has a deeply moving effect.  In Ypres today The Menin Gate Memorial had the same effect.

At the end of WWI Winston Churchill wanted to claim the entire ruins of the town of Ypres as a war memorial.   185,000 British Commonwealth soldiers had died in the surrounding area - the Salient - and 100,000 of those had no known grave. Winston said that there was no place more sacred in the world.  Understandably the people of Ypres didn't agree with Winston's plan for their town and so in 1928 the memorial was built, and at precisely 8pm every night since (WWII excepted), in a ceremony to honour and remember the lives lost, the Last Post is played by buglers from the Ieper volunteer fire brigade.

The Menin Gate Memorial
Inscribed on stone panels on the walls, under the great arches
 and up the stairs are the names of some 55,000 soldiers with
no known grave.  More than 6,000 names are Australian.
Ieper's Cloth Hall which also houses the
In Flanders Field Museum
We visited the In Flanders Field Museum where the harrowing story of the Ypres Salient is told.  The excellent multi-media curating added even more meaning when we visited the Memorial just a short walk from the museum.  Ieper is a very pretty town and senor and I were pleased to be able to visit it on this lovely autumn day.


Tuesday 13 September 2011

Speed, bonnie boat

We spent two days exploring Loch Ness and the Great Glen before heading for the Isle of Skye and Acharacle, Ardnamurchan  - the west highlands. It was fun to see how the Loch Ness legend maintains the area as a tourist attraction. In the newspaper yesterday - an article of a possible sighting!  People will forever be looking for Nessie and on the banks of the south shore of Loch Ness, where we stopped for lunch in the Dores Inn, is the caravan home of Steve Feltham.  He has lived there for 20 years looking for the Loch Ness monster!

The Great Glen and Castle Urquhart on the northern shore of
Loch Ness, just near Dromnadrochit where the whole Nessie
 business began in the 1920s.

Ah, the heather! Everywhere the highlands were
covered in mauve loveliness.
It's nearly time to put orders in!
Professional Nessie hunter's home on Loch Ness
She looks something like this.
As we left Inverness and headed south west the weather deterioriated.  The tail end of hurricane Katia that had wreaked its havoc on the US east coast had arrived in south west Scotland and with it were warnings of excessive rain and gale force winds.

The drive through the highlands was spectacular.  Torrents of water cascading in great streams from the cliffs and crags of the highland peaks.

'over the sea to Skye'- well over the Skye bridge to Skye.
'Loud the winds howl, loud the waves roar,
Thunderclaps rend the air'.
They sure did.
We drove with great care.  The next sign we saw
advised....'possible landslides ahead'!
Crofters cottage, Isle of Skye.
That's one way to keep your roof on in gale force winds.

Eilean Donan Castle
The weather conditions caused by the tail end of the hurricane
forced this couple to eat their 'addock'n'chips in a phone box!
Poor things.
So much rain fell that all through the highlands
 the hills and mountains were pouring
with streams and riverlets.  It was an amazing sight.






The rivers were fairly flowing and rising.  In some
villages there was flooding and road closures.
Rob Roy MacGregor's grave at Balquidder
Pretty Plockton
In the Scottish Highlands our hiking boots earned their
place on tour.
The weather began to clear as we headed east for our final Scottish destination - Edinburgh.  Handsome Edinburgh.  A bit like a weathered but brave Scottish soldier really. It was good to park Cecile for a couple of days at our centrally-located accommodation and walk our way around the city.  Firstly, the UNESCO heritage listed old town, along the Royal Mile, then Georgian new town, up Arthur's Seat, and all over the Royal Yacht Britannia.  Fabulous city, fabulous time we had.

On an Edinburgh street corner....I'll never tire
of hearing the bagpiper.......
.....some people do.  This sign in the window of the
building opposite the piper!
The Royal Mile

On the way up Arthut's Seat

Salisbury Crags
Like I said, in Scotland it's all about tartan



Edinburgh Castle from the esplanade where the 8000 brand new
amphitheatre seats were being dismantled at the end of the 2011
Tattoo season
An Edinburgh morning coffee - perfect,
thanks Morag!
Haste Ye Back!